Madrid for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
A high plateau, late dinners, and Goya's skies.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Arrival at a run
- Madrid Río run
Run or ride the riverbank park built over the old M-30 motorway, past Matadero and the bridges; ten flat kilometres with fountains and no traffic lights.
- Faro de Moncloa
A 92-metre concrete tower with a glass lift and a deck that turns the whole city to a map; on a clear evening the Sierra shows, which is your Saturday.
- Casa Mingo
Half a roast chicken, chorizo in cider and a jug of the same, at long tables on the Paseo de la Florida since 1888; the cider is poured from a height.
Saturday: The Sierra
- Camino Schmid
Take the C-2 train to Cercedilla and climb the Camino Schmid to the Puerto de Navacerrada: twelve kilometres of pine forest, steady gradient, cold at the top.
- Taberna La Bola
Cocido madrileño, three courses from a clay pot cooked on charcoal since 1870, the only lunch with enough chickpeas and bacon to follow a mountain; cash only.
- Cardamomo
Flamenco in a small tablao, close enough that the heel work moves the glasses; a late show suits legs that have walked twelve kilometres.
Sunday: Over the river
- Teleférico de Madrid
Eleven minutes in a glass gondola from the Rosales promenade over the Manzanares and the motorway, with the Palace and the Almudena in the window.
- Casa de Campo lake loop
Run the lake loop in a park five times the size of Central Park, where wild boar and deer sit at the edges; eight kilometres of gravel and one rowing lake.
- Taberna Almendro 13
Huevos rotos with ham and a plate of croquetas on a narrow La Latina lane; high stools, short menu, made for people who run before lunch.
Monday: Last lap
- Retiro outer loop
Run the outer ring of the Retiro, five and a half kilometres of flat gravel with the Crystal Palace at the halfway mark; the gates have been open since six.
- Estadio Santiago Bernabéu tour
The rebuilt stadium's tour goes to the pitch edge, the dressing rooms and the trophy room; metro line 10 stops at the door.
- Casa Labra
Fried cod croquettes and battered cod at the zinc counter where the Spanish socialist party was founded in 1879; pay at the till first, then eat.