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Madrid for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A high plateau, late dinners, and Goya's skies.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Arrival at a run

  1. Madrid Río run

    Run or ride the riverbank park built over the old M-30 motorway, past Matadero and the bridges; ten flat kilometres with fountains and no traffic lights.

  2. Faro de Moncloa

    A 92-metre concrete tower with a glass lift and a deck that turns the whole city to a map; on a clear evening the Sierra shows, which is your Saturday.

  3. Casa Mingo

    Half a roast chicken, chorizo in cider and a jug of the same, at long tables on the Paseo de la Florida since 1888; the cider is poured from a height.

Saturday: The Sierra

  1. Camino Schmid

    Take the C-2 train to Cercedilla and climb the Camino Schmid to the Puerto de Navacerrada: twelve kilometres of pine forest, steady gradient, cold at the top.

  2. Taberna La Bola

    Cocido madrileño, three courses from a clay pot cooked on charcoal since 1870, the only lunch with enough chickpeas and bacon to follow a mountain; cash only.

  3. Cardamomo

    Flamenco in a small tablao, close enough that the heel work moves the glasses; a late show suits legs that have walked twelve kilometres.

Sunday: Over the river

  1. Teleférico de Madrid

    Eleven minutes in a glass gondola from the Rosales promenade over the Manzanares and the motorway, with the Palace and the Almudena in the window.

  2. Casa de Campo lake loop

    Run the lake loop in a park five times the size of Central Park, where wild boar and deer sit at the edges; eight kilometres of gravel and one rowing lake.

  3. Taberna Almendro 13

    Huevos rotos with ham and a plate of croquetas on a narrow La Latina lane; high stools, short menu, made for people who run before lunch.

Monday: Last lap

  1. Retiro outer loop

    Run the outer ring of the Retiro, five and a half kilometres of flat gravel with the Crystal Palace at the halfway mark; the gates have been open since six.

  2. Estadio Santiago Bernabéu tour

    The rebuilt stadium's tour goes to the pitch edge, the dressing rooms and the trophy room; metro line 10 stops at the door.

  3. Casa Labra

    Fried cod croquettes and battered cod at the zinc counter where the Spanish socialist party was founded in 1879; pay at the till first, then eat.

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