Seoul for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The tiled roofs of six hundred hanok on the slope between two palaces; one lane up, one lane down, slowly, and the view from the top of Gahoe-dong is the sight.

A courtyard teahouse under a persimmon tree behind a gallery, with omija tea, jujube tea and rice cakes brought to a low table; nobody will move you on.

Kaesong court cooking in a quiet hanok below the palace wall, courses of pressed beef, mung-bean jelly and stuffed cucumber, ordered as a set and over by nine.

A ginseng facial or a two-hour body treatment in the flagship's spa, lanterns and dark stone, with a tea room after; the morning goes and you do not mind.

Galbi grilled at the table in a 1976 garden restaurant with carp ponds and a waterfall, lunch stretching into the afternoon on the terrace above the water.

A 794 temple opposite the convention centre, with a 23-metre Buddha, lanterns in the courtyard and a tea pavilion; sit, and the towers stop mattering.

The small palace beside City Hall with a neoclassical stone hall among the wooden ones, flat gravel courts and benches under old trees; an hour, no hurry.

The 1962 noodle house behind City Hall: cold soy-milk noodles in summer, mandu soup in winter, a quick menu eaten slowly at a shared table.

A traditional dance and music performance in a small theatre on the Jeongdong lane, an hour and a half with no need to read the subtitles.

A park on the old racecourse with deer behind a fence, metasequoia avenues and a café in the greenhouse; a flat hour's walk, then a bench.

The 1930s hanok of the novelist Lee Tae-jun, kept by his granddaughter as a teahouse: jujube tea and red-bean bingsu on the wooden floor above the garden.

Hand-torn dough soup in an anchovy broth with potato and courgette, a bowl of kimchi and nothing else, in a house on the Samcheong-dong slope since 1982.