Cairo for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Walk Al-Muizz Street with a map of the gates at dusk; the street is safe, crowded and bright until late.

Browse the bazaar's quieter lanes at the end of the day; hawkers' attention eases once the sun is down.

Eat at the counter at the best-known koshary shop; ordering is by pointing, the bowl comes fast, and tables turn quickly.

Go at opening, join a small group or just walk; take only the ticket price and refuse offers on the way.

A single order of mixed grill is plenty; the staff look after solo diners and a table is easy to get at midday.

Afternoon at the Grand Egyptian Museum with the crowds thinning; allow three hours and book the timed entry online.

The old museum at Tahrir at opening, before the coaches arrive; the Amarna room and the mummy of Ramses are still here.

A counter and a few stools for a taameya sandwich and a hibiscus juice; everyone eats alone here.

Share a felucca with strangers on the Corniche; the ride costs a few euros per head and the captain tells stories.

A walk through the hilltop park on Monday morning, the quiet day, with the Citadel above and the old city below.

A pot of mint tea and a newspaper in the old mirrored café before heading for the airport.