Hanoi for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A 1.7 km circuit of the lake at the best hour, with locals strolling and the temple lit up on the islet; do it once and learn the centre.

A narrow lane of houses beside the railway track; sit in a café and the evening train passes a hand's breadth away. Check the times.

Sit at the counter beside the wok: the cooks fry the beef in garlic and the bowl is on the table in two minutes.

A 17 km loop at sunrise with the lake still misty and the roads empty; rent the bike the evening before and you can be out by six.

Open from 08:30 and quiet in the first hour, with the outdoor stilt houses empty and the clear galleries on the 54 ethnic groups.

A bowl of dry noodles with beef, peanuts and herbs, eaten at a shared table among the lunch crowd; one bowl, quick and cheap.

A two-hour local train through the paddies; buy a ticket at the station counter and sit by the window with a coffee.

Share a rowing boat with strangers through the caves and limestone peaks; you will be the one who gets the front seat.

A plastic stool, a glass of fresh beer and a plate of grilled squid; start a conversation with the table beside you.

Walk the iron bridge as the sun comes up; the early light on the river is the best of the weekend, and there are few people about.

The colonial prison and revolution-era museum opens at eight; go in first and have the guillotine room to yourself.

A sticky-rice counter: choose your toppings of chicken, egg, pâté and fried shallot, and it arrives in a bowl in half a minute.