Hanoi for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Lakes, lacquer, and a thousand-year hum.
A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.
Friday: A pedestrian lake and long tables
- Hoan Kiem Lake pedestrian streets
The streets round the lake are closed to traffic from Friday evening, flat and wide, with benches under the trees and ice cream stalls.
- Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre
A fifty-minute show with a cushioned seat and no stairs, which suits eight and eighty alike; book the 17:20 slot to keep the evening free.
- Quán Ăn Ngon
A courtyard villa with round tables for eight and a hundred dishes from every region; everyone orders their own and shares.
Saturday: A museum garden and a fish house
- Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
Flat paths, shade, benches and a café in the garden of stilt houses; grandparents can sit while the children explore the long houses.
- Chả cá Lã Vọng
A table for the whole family upstairs at the fish house on its own street; the dish is cooked in front of you and shared.
- Trấn Quốc Pagoda
A flat causeway to a small islet and a brick stupa, with benches at the water's edge and the sun going down.
Sunday: Paintings, a delicate soup and a boat
- Vietnam Fine Arts Museum
A French-era building with lacquer paintings, folk art and a cool courtyard; there are benches and a lift to the upper floor.
- Bún thang Bà Đức
A gentle chicken and egg noodle soup that all ages like, served at a family table in the Old Quarter.
- Swan pedal boats on West Lake
A slow pedal over the lake with life jackets and a seat for everyone, and a breeze that suits a Sunday afternoon.
Monday: A temple garden and an ice cream
- Temple of Literature
Shaded courtyards of flat stone paths and benches; the old trees and turtles delight children and the pace suits grandparents.
- Bún chả Hương Liên
A simple grilled pork lunch that all ages can eat, with quick service and a plain option; go before the lunch rush.
- Tràng Tiền Ice Cream
Hanoi's old ice-cream parlour, since 1958: coconut, green rice and vanilla in a cone, eaten standing on the pavement by the lake.