Istanbul for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Walk the two-deck bridge as the anglers line up; the upper deck gives views both ways, and the lower deck is lined with fish restaurants.

Go up at sunset; a single ticket gets you the panoramic gallery with room to stand at the railing.

Take a seat at the grill counter, which is the best place to eat alone: the cook will hand over a skewer, and you can order half portions.

Be at the door when it opens and go straight to the upper gallery before the groups arrive; the afternoon queues are twice as long.

Enter by the side door, remove your shoes and cover your shoulders; the 20,000 blue İznik tiles are best in late morning, well clear of prayer times.

Order the half portion of meatballs and the bean salad at the counter; it is a ten-minute lunch, and nobody minds a table for one.

Arrive when it opens and see the permanent collection before the weekend crowds; the cafe on the top floor looks over the Bosphorus.

Eat at the long counter overlooking the kitchen: a plate of lamb and aubergine, or the daily vegetable dishes, takes twenty minutes.

A twenty-minute ferry across to the Asian side costs the price of a metro ride; take a simit, stay on the open deck and walk to Moda.

The L-shaped hall is least crowded at opening; buy saffron and Turkish delight in small amounts and ask for a taste before paying.

Go before noon, when the alleys are still empty; head for the old Bedesten at the centre, then the leather and ceramics at the edges.

Take a stool for a plate of baklava and a Turkish coffee; a last stop before the airport and a perfectly good solo lunch.