Istanbul for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Two continents, one ferry, and a tea glass in every hand.
A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.
Friday: A square with benches
- Sultanahmet Square
A flat, paved square with benches under the plane trees, between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, with obelisks to stare at and no stairs.
- Sultanahmet Köftecisi
Meatballs, white bean salad and a long table, for twenty minutes or an hour; everyone can find something they like and the prices are small.
Saturday: A palace on the water
- Dolmabahçe Palace
A guided visit through flat, carpeted halls, with a wheelchair route and benches; the crystal staircase and the ceremonial hall are the highlights.
- Hamdi Restaurant
A long table at the window over the Golden Horn; the kebab plates and the sweet kunefe suit every age at the table.
- Gülhane Park
Wide, level paths and plenty of benches below the old palace wall; the teahouse with the view is a good place to end the day.
Sunday: Over the water, no stairs
- Eminönü–Kadıköy ferry
A twenty-minute ferry across to Asia, with indoor seating and tea sellers on the deck; the pier at Kadıköy is level with the street.
- Çiya Sofrası
A big room of long tables and steam trays of dishes from all over Turkey; grandparents can look and point rather than read the menu.
- Moda seafront
A flat, shaded promenade by the water, with benches every few metres and ice-cream sellers; a good place for a slow afternoon.
Monday: One highlight and a lunch
- Hagia Sophia
Visit at opening, when it is cool and uncrowded, and take the wide ramp to the gallery; the benches around the nave allow rests.
- Caferağa Medresesi
A quiet arcaded courtyard with tea, shade and benches, five minutes from the church on level ground.
- Giritli
A garden courtyard with big tables; order several dishes for the middle of the table and let everyone share.