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Paris for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Zinc roofs, limestone, and the long grey light.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Stairs, a river pool, a bouillon

  1. Arc de Triomphe

    284 steps up the spiral to the roof, the twelve avenues spinning out below; the only place to see the city's geometry with your pulse up.

  2. Piscine Joséphine Baker

    A pool on a barge in the Seine, open into the evening; twenty-five metres of lengths with the river sliding past the glass.

  3. Bouillon Chartier

    The 1896 workers' canteen, waiters in waistcoats writing the bill on the tablecloth; steak frites in ten minutes, no booking, fuel for tomorrow.

Saturday: Lakes, the iron stairs, and the counter

  1. Bois de Boulogne, Lac Inférieur

    A dawn loop of the two lakes on the sandy path, rowing boats still tied up, the Longchamp cyclists just starting their circuits.

  2. Eiffel Tower by the stairs

    674 steps through the ironwork to the second floor, no lift queue and the rivets at arm's length; the top is a separate ticket.

  3. L'Avant Comptoir de la Terre

    Standing room only, menus hanging from the ceiling, small plates of pig and a glass of Loire red passed over heads; eat until the legs stop shaking.

Sunday: Sandstone

  1. Bas-Cuvier boulders, Fontainebleau

    Forty minutes by train to Fontainebleau-Avon, then the birthplace of bouldering: numbered circuits on sandstone from yellow to black, a crash pad hired in town.

  2. Sentier des 25 Bosses

    The 25 Humps trail, sixteen kilometres over every sandstone ridge in the Trois Pignons; five hours, your own water, and knees that will remember it.

  3. Bouillon Pigalle

    Open until midnight at the foot of Montmartre, œuf mayo and a blanquette for the price of a sandwich elsewhere; the queue moves fast.

Monday: Up Montmartre twice

  1. Rue Foyatier stairs

    222 steps beside the funicular to the Sacré-Cœur parvis at sunrise, the city pink below and nobody on them but the joggers.

  2. Dome of the Sacré-Cœur

    Another 300 steps inside the dome to the highest open viewpoint in Paris, reached from the basilica's left side; cash for the turnstile.

  3. Au Pied de Cochon

    Onion soup gratinée at the counter of the all-night brasserie of the old Halles; the kitchen has not closed since 1947 and will not for you.

Other ways to see Paris