Paris for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Zinc roofs, limestone, and the long grey light.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Stairs, a river pool, a bouillon
- Arc de Triomphe
284 steps up the spiral to the roof, the twelve avenues spinning out below; the only place to see the city's geometry with your pulse up.
- Piscine Joséphine Baker
A pool on a barge in the Seine, open into the evening; twenty-five metres of lengths with the river sliding past the glass.
- Bouillon Chartier
The 1896 workers' canteen, waiters in waistcoats writing the bill on the tablecloth; steak frites in ten minutes, no booking, fuel for tomorrow.
Saturday: Lakes, the iron stairs, and the counter
- Bois de Boulogne, Lac Inférieur
A dawn loop of the two lakes on the sandy path, rowing boats still tied up, the Longchamp cyclists just starting their circuits.
- Eiffel Tower by the stairs
674 steps through the ironwork to the second floor, no lift queue and the rivets at arm's length; the top is a separate ticket.
- L'Avant Comptoir de la Terre
Standing room only, menus hanging from the ceiling, small plates of pig and a glass of Loire red passed over heads; eat until the legs stop shaking.
Sunday: Sandstone
- Bas-Cuvier boulders, Fontainebleau
Forty minutes by train to Fontainebleau-Avon, then the birthplace of bouldering: numbered circuits on sandstone from yellow to black, a crash pad hired in town.
- Sentier des 25 Bosses
The 25 Humps trail, sixteen kilometres over every sandstone ridge in the Trois Pignons; five hours, your own water, and knees that will remember it.
- Bouillon Pigalle
Open until midnight at the foot of Montmartre, œuf mayo and a blanquette for the price of a sandwich elsewhere; the queue moves fast.
Monday: Up Montmartre twice
- Rue Foyatier stairs
222 steps beside the funicular to the Sacré-Cœur parvis at sunrise, the city pink below and nobody on them but the joggers.
- Dome of the Sacré-Cœur
Another 300 steps inside the dome to the highest open viewpoint in Paris, reached from the basilica's left side; cash for the turnstile.
- Au Pied de Cochon
Onion soup gratinée at the counter of the all-night brasserie of the old Halles; the kitchen has not closed since 1947 and will not for you.