Paris for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Zinc roofs, limestone, and the long grey light.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Gehry, 1937, and the Revolution's café
- Fondation Louis Vuitton
Gehry's twelve glass sails over a cascade, best read from the rooftop terraces where the steel armature is exposed.
- Palais de Tokyo
The 1937 exposition pavilion stripped back to raw concrete by Lacaton & Vassal, open until midnight with whatever is on.
- Le Procope
The oldest café in the city, 1686, where Voltaire drank forty coffees a day and Danton, Marat and Robespierre plotted upstairs; coq au vin under Napoleon's hat.
Saturday: Medieval, then the casts
- Sainte-Chapelle
Louis IX's reliquary chapel of 1248, fifteen windows of thirteenth-century glass holding the walls up; the first slot of the morning, before the light moves.
- Cité de l'architecture et du patrimoine
A full apartment from Le Corbusier's Marseille Unité rebuilt inside the museum, with the plaster casts of cathedral portals upstairs.
- Les Ombres
Nouvel's glass roof over the museum, lattice shadows on the table and the Eiffel Tower filling the window.
Sunday: Corbusier's day
- Villa Savoye
The 1931 machine for living, pilotis and ribbon windows and the ramp to the roof, forty minutes from Châtelet.
- Pavillon Suisse and Maison du Brésil
Le Corbusier's two student halls, 1933 and 1959, a generation apart in concrete; the lobbies are open.
- La Coupole
The 1927 brasserie whose pillars were painted by the Montparnasse artists who ate there on credit.
Monday: The prison and the east bank
- Conciergerie
The guided tour at opening through the Capetian hall, the Revolutionary tribunal and Marie-Antoinette's cell, with the tablet that rebuilds each room as it was.
- Cinémathèque française
Gehry's 1994 American Center, now the cinema museum, with Méliès' props in a building that already looks like a film set.
- La Felicità
A food hall inside Freyssinet's 1929 concrete rail halle, trattoria plates under the original vaulted shells.