Bangkok for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Gold leaf, river light, and the long hot dusk.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Oyster omelette and a gin bar
- Nai Mong Hoi Thod
Crisp oyster omelette sizzled in a big pan at the corner of Yaowarat, with bean sprouts and a sweet chilli sauce; a good start for the night.
- Talat Noi lanes at night
A walk through the old riverside quarter of auto-repair shops and shrines, with street art on the walls and ghost-lit alleys; keep to the main lane.
- Teens of Thailand
A small gin bar in a Chinatown shophouse with a neon sign and a short menu of drinks; the bartenders are friendly and the crowd comes late.
Saturday: Sky bar and a saxophone
- Boat noodle alley, Victory Monument
A late-morning bowl of dark boat noodles; the little portions are the best hangover cure in the city.
- Vertigo and Moon Bar
A rooftop on the 61st floor with an open view of Lumphini Park and the skyline; cocktails are pricey and the dress code is smart casual.
- Saxophone Pub
A small, dark bar with live blues, jazz and reggae since 1987, with a noisy crowd of regulars; the band starts at nine and the beer is cheap.
Sunday: Rails, a market and a spirits bar
- Jok Prince
A bowl of rice porridge with pork and a soft egg, a gentle meal for a slow start to the day.
- Train Night Market Srinakarin
A big vintage and flea market under tarps, open Thursday to Sunday from five, with antique trinkets, grilled snacks and rows of old cars.
- Tep Bar
A cocktail bar in a Chinatown shophouse devoted to Thai spirits, with a live band playing folk music on the ground floor and a low-lit upstairs.
Monday: Flowers at dawn and a late breakfast
- Pak Khlong Talat at dawn
The flower market is at full volume before dawn, with marigold garlands and lotus buds hauled from pickups; go before five and the sun comes up over the river.
- Jok Prince
The early-morning bowl of porridge for people who have not slept; hot, mild and generous.
- Thai massage at Wat Pho
A one-hour traditional Thai massage in the temple's school, to ease the weekend out of your legs before the flight.