Bangkok for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Gold leaf, river light, and the long hot dusk.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: A glass tray over the city
- MahaNakhon SkyWalk
The rooftop at 314 metres with a glass floor tray that juts out over the city; go for sunset and walk out onto the glass, if you dare.
- Jek Pui curry stall
A pavement curry shop in Chinatown that has served for decades: choose three scoops of a rich pork curry, a green curry and a stir-fry over rice; it is cheap and fast.
- Muay Thai at Rajadamnern Stadium
The oldest ring in Thailand, since 1945, with live orchestra and ten bouts a night; choose a second-class seat, check the card, and watch the footwork.
Saturday: A green lung by bicycle
- Bang Krachao by bike
Take the ferry from Khlong Toei across the river to Bangkok's jungle peninsula; rent a bicycle and ride the raised concrete paths through mangroves and orchards.
- Khlong Saen Saep canal boat
A canal commuter boat that hurtles between stops with passengers hauling up the awnings; hold the rope and keep your elbows in. Fares are paid to the conductor.
- Thip Samai
Pad thai wrapped in a thin egg omelette, the dish the shop has made on this corner for decades, with fresh orange juice; the queue moves faster than it looks.
Sunday: Ayutthaya by rail and pedal
- Ayutthaya by train
The third-class train to the old capital takes about an hour and a half and costs a few baht; sit by an open window and expect rolled-up newspaper breakfast sellers.
- Ayutthaya temples by bicycle
Rent a bike near the station and ride between the ruined prangs of Wat Mahathat, Wat Phra Si Sanphet and Wat Chaiwatthanaram; the Buddha head in the tree roots is at the first.
- Boat noodle alley, Victory Monument
Tiny bowls of dark, spiced pork-blood noodle soup, ordered by the handful from stalls on stilts; eat ten and then count the bowls.
Monday: A sunrise run and the Golden Mount
- Lumphini Park at sunrise
Run the 2.5 km perimeter with the city's early joggers, tai chi crowds and monitor lizards in the water; it is a beautiful circuit at dawn.
- Wat Saket Golden Mount
Three hundred and forty-four steps spiralling up a brick-and-stucco hill to a golden chedi with views of the old city; go before ten, before the heat.
- Nai Ek Roll Noodle
Rolled rice noodles in a light pork broth with a crisp pork-lard topping; a good cheap lunch in Chinatown before the airport.