Bangkok for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The elevated loop is a short, shaded walk above the lake, with monitor lizards on the banks; start here to stretch your legs after the flight.

A fast commuter boat, three baht more than a bus ticket; pay the conductor and enjoy a view of the back alleys you cannot see from the road.

A pavement counter in Chinatown: point to three curries, pay a few baht and eat standing at the stall; nobody notices you are alone.

The orange-flag boat is nearly empty at six: ride upriver towards Nonthaburi with the temples in mist and the commuters asleep on the benches.

A free, spiral-ramped gallery of contemporary Thai art; arrive at opening, take the lift to the top floor and walk down.

Pad thai in an egg wrapper, eaten alone at a small table with a fresh orange juice; it is quick, and the line moves briskly.

The third-class train to the old capital leaves just after seven and stops at all the little stations; buy a ticket at the counter and sit by the window.

Hire a longtail for the hour and glide through the narrow canals of the old Thonburi side, past stilt houses and orchids; share the price if you meet another traveller.

Tiny bowls of spicy boat noodles, ordered by the handful at a counter; for one person it is the best dinner in town.

Walk or run the perimeter as the city's aerobics classes, tai chi groups and monitor lizards get going; it is the best free hour of the weekend.

The gates open at eight and the reclining Buddha is quiet for the first half-hour; go straight to the 46-metre figure and then the courtyards.

A counter for rice porridge: a bowl with pork balls and a soft egg, ready in a minute and eaten in five.