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Budapest for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Thermal water, ruin bars, and a river that cuts the city in two.

A weekend the children will remember and the parents will survive. Short walks between real highlights, a boat or a tram instead of a museum queue, dinners at six, and room to run.

Friday: A walk on the island

  1. Margaret Island

    A car-free island park with a playground, a Japanese garden and a small zoo of deer and birds; children can run without worry.

  2. Menza

    A family-friendly café with a menu that includes chicken paprikás and pasta for children, and booths where nobody minds noise.

Saturday: Zoo and baths

  1. Budapest Zoo

    One of Europe's oldest zoos, with Art Nouveau animal houses, a petting zoo and a playground; the elephants' house is a good first stop.

  2. Gundel

    A grand old restaurant next to the zoo with a children's menu and palacsinta for dessert; book a table and ask for the garden.

  3. Széchenyi Baths

    The warm outdoor pools suit children, with the big swimming pool and the shallow ends; lockers and a family changing area are inside.

  4. Karavan Street Food

    Street-food trucks in a courtyard, so children can pick burgers, langoş or chimney cake, and parents can sit down with a beer.

Sunday: Funicular and a hands-on museum

  1. Castle Hill Funicular

    A 1870 funicular up to the castle terrace, the right size for a small child's idea of a ride; the view of Pest opens as you climb.

  2. Déryné Bistro

    A bright bistro below the castle with a lunch menu and cakes, a sensible stop after the funicular; ask for a window table.

  3. Palace of Wonders

    An interactive science centre with experiments to touch and run; Sundays are crowded, so arrive when the doors open if you can.

  4. Gettó Gulyás

    Goulash and paprikás dumplings, quick service and no booking; an early dinner at six suits the schedule of small children.

Monday: Market and cake

  1. Great Market Hall

    Children can look at paprika garlands, strings of salami and a few langoş; the upper gallery gives a view over the stalls.

  2. Café Gerbeaud

    Hot chocolate and cake in a historic coffeehouse on the main square, a good stop before the airport.

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