Budapest for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Thermal water, ruin bars, and a river that cuts the city in two.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Tram, counter, jazz
- Tram 2 along the Pest embankment
Ride the riverside tram past the Parliament, the Chain Bridge and the castle; get off wherever the view is best and walk.
- Karavan Street Food
A courtyard of food trucks where eating alone is normal; order a burger or langoş, find a stool and a beer.
- Budapest Jazz Club
A listening room with live jazz nightly, a good place on your own, with a seat at the bar near the stage.
Saturday: A gallery, a market, a bath
- Hungarian National Gallery
Hungarian painting in the Royal Palace; go at opening to have the Munkácsy and Csontváry rooms to yourself, then then go up to the dome terrace.
- Fakanál Étterem
A simple restaurant in the Great Market Hall with classic Hungarian lunch; sit alone at a small table by the window.
- Lukács Baths
A local's thermal bath on the Buda side, with plain, unfussy pools and a mostly local crowd; swimsuits are required and nobody will bother you.
- Doblo Wine Bar
A brick-vaulted wine bar with Hungarian wines by the glass and cheese plates; sit at the bar and talk to the staff.
Sunday: Hills and the House of Terror
- Elizabeth Lookout on János Hill
Walk up from Zugliget (bus 291) through the beech woods, about an hour, to the tower at the highest point in Budapest.
- Gettó Gulyás
A bowl of goulash at the bar, in a few minutes, with no booking and nobody minding that you are on your own.
- House of Terror
The headquarters of both Arrow Cross and communist secret police, now a museum of both regimes; allow two hours and bring something to think about.
Monday: A last cake
- Shoes on the Danube Bank
Sixty pairs of iron shoes on the riverbank mark the victims shot here in 1944-45; early on a Monday you will be alone.
- Great Synagogue
The largest synagogue in Europe, with a Moorish interior and a memorial garden; the ticket also covers the museum.
- Café Central
A leisurely lunch or coffee and cake in an old literary coffeehouse, a calm last stop before the airport bus.