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Budapest for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Thermal water, ruin bars, and a river that cuts the city in two.

Eating is the itinerary. Breakfast where the porters eat, a market tour, the dish the city is known for in the place that does it best, and one serious dinner.

Friday: Paprika and a proper kifőzde

  1. Great Market Hall

    Reach the iron-roofed hall before it closes at six: paprika, salami, pickled peppers and langoş upstairs. Buy picnic food for Monday.

  2. Hungarikum Bistro

    A bistro near the Parliament built on classics: goulash, stuffed cabbage, duck with red cabbage, and a Hungarian wine list.

  3. Doblo Wine Bar

    A brick-vaulted wine bar with a big Hungarian list, pours by the glass and plates of cheese and cured meats.

Saturday: Market, class, and one serious dinner

  1. Taste Hungary market tour and cooking class

    Meet at the Great Market Hall, shop with a guide, then cook a three-course lunch; the half-day fills fast, so book it early.

  2. Café Gerbeaud

    A slice of Esterházy torta or Dobos with a coffee on the square where the city has taken its afternoon cake since 1858.

  3. Costes

    The city's first Michelin-starred tasting menu, polished and precise, with wine pairing; expect about three hours. Book far ahead.

Sunday: Sunday, three plates

  1. Szimpla Kert

    The Sunday farmers' market runs in the ruin bar's courtyards: cheese, sausages, lángos and honey from producers, with coffee.

  2. Kéhli Vendéglő

    Old-school Hungarian cooking in Óbuda: bone marrow, a proper goulash and Kéhli's famous pork knuckle, served by waiters who look as old as the recipes.

  3. DiVino Borbár

    A modern wine bar beside the basilica, serving Tokaji, Villány reds and Hungarian sparkling by the glass, with cheese and charcuterie.

Monday: Breakfast and a last market lunch

  1. Café Central

    A leisurely breakfast in an old literary coffeehouse: eggs, rolls and strong coffee, before the day begins.

  2. Fakanál Étterem

    A simple restaurant in the Great Market Hall serving classic Hungarian lunch; order stuffed cabbage or paprikás chicken with nokedli before your flight.

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