Dakar for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Atlantic light, Gorée's ferry, and a city that dances at midnight.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Settling in
- Place de l'Indépendance
An easy first walk around the old colonial centre, which is safe in daylight and compact enough to cover on foot.
- Marché Kermel
Wander the market hall as the stalls pack up, and buy a juice from the stands at the entrance.
- Chez Loutcha
Dinner at the counter or a small table; Chez Loutcha is used to solo diners and the plate of the day is generous.
Saturday: Museum at opening, island after
- Musée des Civilisations noires
Arrive at opening, before the school groups, and you get the circular galleries to yourself.
- Gorée ferry
Join the day-trippers on the ferry to Gorée; stay on the upper deck and talk to people.
- Chevalier de Boufflers
A single plate of fish at a courtyard table, lingering over the view of the quay.
- Maison des Esclaves
The House of Slaves is best visited alone, quietly, when the afternoon guides have finished.
Sunday: Beach and view
- Monument de la Renaissance Africaine
Go early for the lift to the top platform; the morning haze burns off and the view is clearer, with fewer people.
- Île de Ngor
Pirogue to the island and walk its car-free lanes; the whole circuit takes under an hour.
- Le Bideew Bi
Lunch at the beach on Ngor, a seat with a view of the island and the pirogues coming in.
Monday: One more look
- Marché aux poissons de Soumbédioune
Watch the boats land and the buyers bargain, from the edge of the beach where it is easy to stay out of the way.
- Café de Rome
A last café touba and croissant on the Plateau before the airport.