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London for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Two thousand years in layers, and a pint in every one.

Eating is the itinerary. Breakfast where the porters eat, a market tour, the dish the city is known for in the place that does it best, and one serious dinner.

Friday: Coffee, a gallery and pasta

  1. Monmouth Coffee Company

    The small shop that taught London to take coffee seriously; queue for a flat white and a pastry with its famous crumbs.

  2. Tate Modern

    Free, with a view over the river from the tenth floor of the Blavatnik Building; open late on Fridays when the light is best.

  3. Padella

    Hand-rolled pappardelle with beef shin ragu for a fraction of what it costs elsewhere; no bookings, so put your name down early.

Saturday: Borough, Bermondsey and the bone marrow

  1. Borough Market

    Go at opening and graze: a raclette toastie, a Kappacasein cheese, a Brindisa chorizo roll. Take cash, and leave room.

  2. Maltby Street Market

    A smaller railway-arch market with doughnuts from St. John Bakery and Spanish raclette; far less jostling than Borough on Saturday.

  3. St. John

    Nose-to-tail cooking that changed British menus: bone marrow with parsley salad to start, then whatever the day brought. Book the main room.

Sunday: Salt beef and fried fish

  1. Beigel Bake

    A 24-hour bakery with a salt beef bagel sold for pocket change; the queue moves fast and the mustard has a kick.

  2. Columbia Road Flower Market

    A Sunday-only street of flower stalls and small shops; sellers cut their prices after noon, but the best stems go by ten.

  3. Poppies Fish & Chips

    A 1950s-style chippy with a jukebox and a proper batter; the haddock comes with mushy peas and tartare sauce.

  4. Dishoom Shoreditch

    A Bombay-style cafe with the famous black dal and bacon naan; arrive at opening to skip the queue.

Monday: A class, then one more lunch

  1. The Cookery School at Little Portland Street

    A morning hands-on class, perhaps pasta or Thai, with lunch from what you cook. Check the schedule when booking.

  2. Kiln

    Thai grill with clay-pot noodles and a counter around the fire; the last fiery lunch before the flight home.

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