London for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Two thousand years in layers, and a pint in every one.
Eating is the itinerary. Breakfast where the porters eat, a market tour, the dish the city is known for in the place that does it best, and one serious dinner.
Friday: Coffee, a gallery and pasta
- Monmouth Coffee Company
The small shop that taught London to take coffee seriously; queue for a flat white and a pastry with its famous crumbs.
- Tate Modern
Free, with a view over the river from the tenth floor of the Blavatnik Building; open late on Fridays when the light is best.
- Padella
Hand-rolled pappardelle with beef shin ragu for a fraction of what it costs elsewhere; no bookings, so put your name down early.
Saturday: Borough, Bermondsey and the bone marrow
- Borough Market
Go at opening and graze: a raclette toastie, a Kappacasein cheese, a Brindisa chorizo roll. Take cash, and leave room.
- Maltby Street Market
A smaller railway-arch market with doughnuts from St. John Bakery and Spanish raclette; far less jostling than Borough on Saturday.
- St. John
Nose-to-tail cooking that changed British menus: bone marrow with parsley salad to start, then whatever the day brought. Book the main room.
Sunday: Salt beef and fried fish
- Beigel Bake
A 24-hour bakery with a salt beef bagel sold for pocket change; the queue moves fast and the mustard has a kick.
- Columbia Road Flower Market
A Sunday-only street of flower stalls and small shops; sellers cut their prices after noon, but the best stems go by ten.
- Poppies Fish & Chips
A 1950s-style chippy with a jukebox and a proper batter; the haddock comes with mushy peas and tartare sauce.
- Dishoom Shoreditch
A Bombay-style cafe with the famous black dal and bacon naan; arrive at opening to skip the queue.
Monday: A class, then one more lunch
- The Cookery School at Little Portland Street
A morning hands-on class, perhaps pasta or Thai, with lunch from what you cook. Check the schedule when booking.
- Kiln
Thai grill with clay-pot noodles and a counter around the fire; the last fiery lunch before the flight home.