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London for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Two thousand years in layers, and a pint in every one.

The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.

Friday: A late gallery and a counter

  1. Tate Modern

    Free and open until 22:00 on Fridays; take the lift to the viewing level for the sunset, then wander the Turbine Hall.

  2. Seven Dials

    A star-shaped junction of seven streets with a sundial pillar, small shops and Neal's Yard a short walk away.

  3. Barrafina

    A Spanish tapas bar built around a counter and with no reservations; sit at the bar and watch the cooks.

Saturday: Two galleries and a noodle bar

  1. National Gallery

    Free, and quiet at opening on a Saturday. Head for Van Gogh's Sunflowers, then Turner and Constable.

  2. Koya

    A tiny udon bar where you sit at the counter and watch the noodles being made; the hot duck udon is a warming bowl.

  3. The Courtauld Gallery

    A compact Impressionist collection, including Manet's A Bar at the Folies-Bergère, in a handsome 18th-century building.

  4. Bao

    Taiwanese steamed buns with fried chicken and braised pork; counter seats go fast, so arrive before the rush.

Sunday: East End at the opening bell

  1. Columbia Road Flower Market

    Get there for the 8 am start while the stalls are full and the pavements are empty enough to walk.

  2. Beigel Bake

    The salt beef bagel and a tea at the 24-hour bakery, eaten standing in the street like everyone else.

  3. Whitechapel Gallery

    Free contemporary shows in a handsome 1901 building, with a good bookshop and a cafe on the ground floor.

  4. Tayyabs

    A Punjabi grill where lamb chops arrive spitting on a hot plate; go early on a Sunday and put your name down.

Monday: Tate Britain, then the pub

  1. Tate Britain

    Free, and best at opening: Turner's watercolours in the Clore Gallery and the Pre-Raphaelites in the main halls.

  2. The Morpeth Arms

    A Victorian pub opposite the gallery, once a prison's warder pub; the upstairs room has a view over the river.

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