London for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Two thousand years in layers, and a pint in every one.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: A late gallery and a counter
- Tate Modern
Free and open until 22:00 on Fridays; take the lift to the viewing level for the sunset, then wander the Turbine Hall.
- Seven Dials
A star-shaped junction of seven streets with a sundial pillar, small shops and Neal's Yard a short walk away.
- Barrafina
A Spanish tapas bar built around a counter and with no reservations; sit at the bar and watch the cooks.
Saturday: Two galleries and a noodle bar
- National Gallery
Free, and quiet at opening on a Saturday. Head for Van Gogh's Sunflowers, then Turner and Constable.
- Koya
A tiny udon bar where you sit at the counter and watch the noodles being made; the hot duck udon is a warming bowl.
- The Courtauld Gallery
A compact Impressionist collection, including Manet's A Bar at the Folies-Bergère, in a handsome 18th-century building.
- Bao
Taiwanese steamed buns with fried chicken and braised pork; counter seats go fast, so arrive before the rush.
Sunday: East End at the opening bell
- Columbia Road Flower Market
Get there for the 8 am start while the stalls are full and the pavements are empty enough to walk.
- Beigel Bake
The salt beef bagel and a tea at the 24-hour bakery, eaten standing in the street like everyone else.
- Whitechapel Gallery
Free contemporary shows in a handsome 1901 building, with a good bookshop and a cafe on the ground floor.
- Tayyabs
A Punjabi grill where lamb chops arrive spitting on a hot plate; go early on a Sunday and put your name down.
Monday: Tate Britain, then the pub
- Tate Britain
Free, and best at opening: Turner's watercolours in the Clore Gallery and the Pre-Raphaelites in the main halls.
- The Morpeth Arms
A Victorian pub opposite the gallery, once a prison's warder pub; the upstairs room has a view over the river.