Mexico City for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Volcanic stone, Barragán pink, and a sinking city.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: A park, a bookshop, a long dinner
- Parque México
An art-deco oval of a park laid over an old racetrack, with a duck pond, a clock tower and benches under the jacarandas; walk it once and sit.
- Casa Lamm
A 1911 mansion turned cultural centre, with a free gallery, a bookshop and a courtyard café that does not mind how long you take over a coffee.
- Rosetta
Elena Reygadas's townhouse of pasta and Mexican herbs in a room of plaster and plants; book the upstairs, order the bread, stay for the last course.
Saturday: A spa morning and a long lunch
- Remède Spa at the St. Regis
A hot stone massage on the fifteenth floor with Reforma below, then the relaxation room with tea; nothing on the itinerary until lunch.
- Nicos
A family restaurant since 1957 where the Caesar salad is dressed at the table and the menu changes with what Gerardo Vázquez Lugo's mother cooked; three hours is normal.
- Viveros de Coyoacán
The city's tree nursery is also its gentlest park: a flat loop under cedars, squirrels that beg, and a bench for the hour before dusk.
Sunday: A garden, two studios, one lunch
- Jardín Botánico, Chapultepec
A small botanical garden of cactus beds and an orchid house inside the park, quieter than anything around it on a Sunday; sit by the lava rock pond.
- Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
O'Gorman's two studio houses joined by a bridge, hers blue, his pink; a half-hour visit, which is the right length before a long lunch next door.
- San Ángel Inn
Sunday lunch in a seventeenth-century monastery with the margaritas in silver bowls of ice; the courtyard tables stay until the lanterns go on.
Monday: Polanco, slowly
- Parque Lincoln
A long garden with a pond of model sailing boats, an aviary and an open-air theatre, where the dog walkers of Polanco set the morning's pace.
- Librería El Péndulo Polanco
A bookshop with a café up a spiral stair and plants hanging from the mezzanine; buy something in Spanish you will not finish and read the first page here.
- Eno Polanco
Enrique Olvera's neighbourhood café, chilaquiles and good coffee at marble tables, ten minutes from Reforma and the airport road.