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Mexico City for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Volcanic stone, Barragán pink, and a sinking city.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: A park, a bookshop, a long dinner

  1. Parque México

    An art-deco oval of a park laid over an old racetrack, with a duck pond, a clock tower and benches under the jacarandas; walk it once and sit.

  2. Casa Lamm

    A 1911 mansion turned cultural centre, with a free gallery, a bookshop and a courtyard café that does not mind how long you take over a coffee.

  3. Rosetta

    Elena Reygadas's townhouse of pasta and Mexican herbs in a room of plaster and plants; book the upstairs, order the bread, stay for the last course.

Saturday: A spa morning and a long lunch

  1. Remède Spa at the St. Regis

    A hot stone massage on the fifteenth floor with Reforma below, then the relaxation room with tea; nothing on the itinerary until lunch.

  2. Nicos

    A family restaurant since 1957 where the Caesar salad is dressed at the table and the menu changes with what Gerardo Vázquez Lugo's mother cooked; three hours is normal.

  3. Viveros de Coyoacán

    The city's tree nursery is also its gentlest park: a flat loop under cedars, squirrels that beg, and a bench for the hour before dusk.

Sunday: A garden, two studios, one lunch

  1. Jardín Botánico, Chapultepec

    A small botanical garden of cactus beds and an orchid house inside the park, quieter than anything around it on a Sunday; sit by the lava rock pond.

  2. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

    O'Gorman's two studio houses joined by a bridge, hers blue, his pink; a half-hour visit, which is the right length before a long lunch next door.

  3. San Ángel Inn

    Sunday lunch in a seventeenth-century monastery with the margaritas in silver bowls of ice; the courtyard tables stay until the lanterns go on.

Monday: Polanco, slowly

  1. Parque Lincoln

    A long garden with a pond of model sailing boats, an aviary and an open-air theatre, where the dog walkers of Polanco set the morning's pace.

  2. Librería El Péndulo Polanco

    A bookshop with a café up a spiral stair and plants hanging from the mezzanine; buy something in Spanish you will not finish and read the first page here.

  3. Eno Polanco

    Enrique Olvera's neighbourhood café, chilaquiles and good coffee at marble tables, ten minutes from Reforma and the airport road.

Other ways to see Mexico City