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Mexico City for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Volcanic stone, Barragán pink, and a sinking city.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Wheels and the ring

  1. Paseo de la Reforma by Ecobici

    A day pass on the city bikes and the protected lane down the avenue to the Alameda at rush hour, which at 2,240 metres counts as a warm-up.

  2. Lucha libre at Arena México

    Friday night at the cathedral of lucha: three hours of técnicos against rudos, a beer in a plastic cup, and a mask you will regret buying.

  3. Taquería Orinoco

    Monterrey-style trompo and chicharrón tacos at a bright counter that runs past three in the morning, with the papas as the recovery carbohydrate.

Saturday: Over the pyramids

  1. Hot-air balloon over Teotihuacán

    Lift off at first light and drift over the Pyramid of the Sun with forty other balloons; the pick-up from the city leaves at four, so sleep on the van.

  2. Zona Arqueológica de Teotihuacán

    Walk the two-kilometre Calzada de los Muertos from the Ciudadela to the Moon; climbing the pyramids has been off since 2020, the heat has not.

  3. Taquería Orinoco

    Monterrey-style tacos at a counter in the Hipódromo, chicharrón and bistec off the grill and a salsa bar to work through: the recovery meal after a day of sun and stairs.

Sunday: Volcano foothills and the canals

  1. Pico del Águila, Ajusco

    The city's own volcano: three hours up through pine to 3,880 metres, with Popocatépetl smoking on the horizon if the morning is clear.

  2. Kayak the Xochimilco canals

    Rent a kayak at the Cuemanco pier and paddle the quiet chinampa channels the trajineras ignore, past herons and the axolotl refuge.

  3. Tacos Don Juan

    A corner stand with a queue of neighbours, costra tacos with the cheese fried into a crust, and a Coke in a glass bottle. Legs will forgive you.

Monday: Dawn laps and a hot soak

  1. Run the Lago Mayor, Chapultepec

    The second section's lake loop is flatter and emptier than the first; two circuits make five kilometres before the fountain is switched on.

  2. Fonda Margarita

    A breakfast fonda that opens at half past five and closes when the clay pots are empty; huevos in salsa verde and the frijoles with chorizo.

  3. Baños Medicinales del Peñón

    Thermal springs under a hill ten minutes from the airport, with private tubs and a steam room run the same way since the 1930s. Soak, then fly.

Other ways to see Mexico City