Mexico City for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Volcanic stone, Barragán pink, and a sinking city.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Up, then the ring
- Monumento a la Revolución
The glass lift up the dome's legs to a terrace over the whole north of the city, with Tlatelolco on the horizon.
- Lucha libre at Arena México
Friday night, the cheapest ring-side seat you can get, and the técnicos against the rudos for three hours.
- Taquería El Califa de León
A three-metre counter, a gaonera taco cut to order, and the first Michelin star given to a taco stand.
Saturday: Pyramids before the heat
- Teotihuacán
Catch the first bus from Terminal del Norte and walk the Calzada de los Muertos to the Pyramid of the Moon before the sun clears the mountains and the coaches arrive.
- Museo Nacional de Antropología, the Mexica hall
Skip the rest and go straight to the Sun Stone and Coatlicue, then sit under the umbrella fountain in the courtyard.
- El Turix
A Yucatecan counter on a Polanco corner: cochinita tacos, pickled habanero, and a stool by the window.
Sunday: The forest and the avenue
- Bosque de Chapultepec at dawn
Run the lake circuit while the rowers are out and the Audiorama among the ahuehuete trees is still silent.
- Paseo de la Reforma ciclovía
The avenue closes to cars every Sunday morning; take an Ecobici the length of it past the Ángel to the Alameda with the whole city on wheels.
- Taquería Los Parados
Standing-only, open around the clock, with chorizo and nopal tacos at the counter and a crowd that changes by the hour without ever thinning.
Monday: Pines and flowers
- Desierto de los Leones
An hour up into the pines above the smog line, the ruined Carmelite convent with its hermitages, and trails empty on a weekday.
- Mercado de Jamaica
The flower market never closes; walk the cempasúchil and lily aisles while the wholesalers load vans.
- Tortas Don Polo
A torta counter in Del Valle, rolls split and pressed with the filling of your choice, eaten standing with a Jarritos. Quick, cheap and a decent way to finish the trip.