New York for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Steel, steam, and a harbour that never sleeps.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Pierogi, jazz and a cocktail bar
- Veselka
A Ukrainian diner in the East Village, open all night since 1954; order the pierogi and the borscht before the night starts.
- Village Vanguard
The basement jazz club where Coltrane and Bill Evans recorded, with a wedge-shaped room and two sets a night; sit near the stage.
- Employees Only
A West Village speakeasy with a neon psychic sign outside; the cocktails are serious and the kitchen is open until four.
Saturday: Pastrami, a jazz club and Bushwick
- Katz's Delicatessen
Pastrami carved by hand on rye since 1888, with a pickle and a ticket you must not lose; the late lunch for a late night.
- Smalls Jazz Club
A basement club in the West Village with a low ceiling, a piano and sets from eight until after midnight; arrive early for a seat.
- House of Yes
A Bushwick club with a theatrical bent, aerial acts and a good sound system; dress up, and the door is friendlier than it looks.
Sunday: Smoked fish, an art museum and Birdland
- Russ & Daughters Café
The appetizing counter's café, with latkes, smoked salmon and a babka; a long lunch for people who woke at noon.
- New Museum
A stack of white boxes by SANAA, devoted to contemporary art, with a rooftop view over the Bowery; a gentle afternoon.
- Birdland
A jazz club off Times Square since 1949, with bebop and big-band nights in the main room; reserve a table and check the listing.
Monday: Bagels, a bridge and a slice
- Murray's Bagels
A hand-rolled bagel with lox and cream cheese in Greenwich Village, a plain breakfast on the way home from a long night. Order at the counter and eat on the move.
- Brooklyn Bridge
Walk the pedestrian deck to Brooklyn with sunglasses on, the towers and cables overhead and the harbour below.
- Joe's Pizza
A Greenwich Village slice since 1975: thin crust, a little grease and a fold; the standing-up lunch of the city.