New York for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Steel, steam, and a harbour that never sleeps.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Hamilton's churchyard and a plotters' tavern
- Trinity Church churchyard
Hamilton and Robert Fulton lie under winged skulls in a 1846 Gothic Revival churchyard once the tallest building in the city.
- Brooklyn Bridge
Roebling's 1883 span of granite towers and steel cables; walk to the first tower for the harbour and the old skyline.
- Fraunces Tavern
A 1762 tavern where Washington said farewell to his officers and where plotters later set a bomb; the pub downstairs serves a good pie.
Saturday: Tenements and steak
- Tenement Museum guided tour
A guided tour of the 1863 building where immigrant families lived for seventy years; the guide knows the families by name.
- Grand Central Terminal
The 1913 Beaux-Arts terminal with its star-painted ceiling and whispering gallery; stand under the arch outside the Oyster Bar and listen.
- Keens Steakhouse
Ninety thousand churchwarden pipes hang from the ceiling of a 1885 theatrical chophouse; order the mutton chop and the Scotch.
Sunday: Modernism, from Wright to Mies
- Seagram Building and Lever House
Mies's bronze mullions and Johnson's plaza facing Bunshaft's blue glass slab, the corporate modernist canon on one block of Park Avenue.
- Guggenheim Museum
Frank Lloyd Wright's white spiral, opened in 1959; take the lift to the top and walk down the ramp to see the building.
- Cookshop
A glass-fronted Chelsea corner room cooking wood-grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables; end the day beside the High Line.
Monday: Ground zero to the library
- The Oculus
Calatrava's white ribs opening like a bird's wing over the PATH hall; walk the marble floor and look up at the skylight.
- 9/11 Memorial & Museum
The museum sits within the footprints of the Twin Towers; allow two hours for the galleries, the slurry wall and the Last Column.
- Hudson Eats at Brookfield Place
Lunch stalls beside Cesar Pelli's Winter Garden, sixteen palm trees under glass; the ramen and burgers are both reliable before the airport.