New York for The Romantics: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Steel, steam, and a harbour that never sleeps.
The weekend for two. Terraces at dusk, a table booked weeks ago, a walk home the long way. Nothing before ten, nothing rushed, one extravagance you will talk about for years.
Friday: Brass plaques and a candlelit cellar
- Hotel Chelsea
Brass plaques for Dylan Thomas, Leonard Cohen and Patti Smith beside the door of the old artists' hotel; stand under the iron balconies as the street lamps come on.
- The Morgan Library & Museum
Pierpont Morgan's three-tiered study with its Gutenberg Bible, free on Friday evenings; the rotunda is lovely in the lamplight and nearly empty by eight.
- Il Buco
Candles on bare wood in a room of old bottles and antiques; the pasta and the olive oil are the point, and the walk back through NoHo is short.
Saturday: Green hills and a French bistro
- Green-Wood Cemetery
A hundred and fifty years of Gothic gatehouse, ponds and monuments, with the harbour and the skyline from Battle Hill; the monk parakeets nest in the arch.
- The Frick Collection
Vermeer's Mistress and Maid and Bellini's St Francis in a Gilded Age mansion; the garden court is the best place to sit for two.
- Le Veau d'Or
A 1937 bistro revived with its red banquettes intact: oeufs mayonnaise, a duck for two and a long wine list; the splurge of the weekend.
Sunday: A tower of tapestries
- The Met Cloisters
The Unicorn Tapestries and the Cuxa cloister reassembled on a hill above the Hudson; walk the herb garden, then sit by the fountain.
- Fort Tryon Park and the Heather Garden
A quiet hillside garden of heather, roses and benches looking over the Hudson to the Palisades; stroll down to the river as the light turns.
- Bemelmans Bar
A bar with Ludwig Bemelmans' murals and a piano trio in the corner; take a table for two and walk home through the park.
Monday: The park's one formal garden
- Conservatory Garden
The park's only formal garden, French, Italian and English in three parts, with fountains and clipped crabapples; nearly empty in the morning.
- Neue Galerie
Klimt's gold portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer, the Woman in Gold, in a Vienna-style mansion on Museum Mile; a romantic last room.
- Café Sabarsky
A Viennese farewell of Sachertorte and a melange under Josef Hoffmann light fittings; a table by the window is worth the ten-minute wait.