Rome for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Every layer of the city is still open for business.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: The terrace and the garden bar
- Pincio terrace
The balustrade above Piazza del Popolo for the late light on the domes, with a bench and the water clock in the trees behind.
- Stravinskij Bar, Hotel de Russie
A negroni in the terraced garden of the hotel under the Pincio, with orange trees and no traffic; the price buys an hour of quiet.
- Il Marchese
An amaro bar with a Roman kitchen, carbonara and a long list of bitters to finish; dinner at eight and in bed by ten, as planned.
Saturday: One gallery and a long lunch
- Galleria Borghese
Two hours by timed ticket with Bernini's Apollo and Daphne and six Caravaggios in a garden villa; the only queue of the weekend, and worth it.
- Al Ceppo
A Parioli dining room with a fireplace grill and a menu from the Marche, lunch stretching into the afternoon with a bottle from the cellar.
- Bar at Hotel Locarno
An art-deco bar with a courtyard and a roof terrace, a cocktail before an early dinner; the lift is the original cage.
Sunday: The botanic garden
- Orto Botanico di Roma
Twelve hectares on the slope of the Gianicolo, a Japanese garden, bamboo, and benches under palms; Sunday morning is the quiet hour.
- Antico Arco
A long lunch on the hill above Trastevere, carbonara with a twist and a cellar of six hundred labels; the walk down afterwards is all downhill.
- Santa Maria in Trastevere
The twelfth-century mosaics catching the late light, the square with its fountain and its loiterers; vespers at six, if you feel like staying.
Monday: The baths by the airport
- Campo de' Fiori market
The flower and fruit stalls setting up under Giordano Bruno's statue, a coffee at the bar on the corner, and nothing else before the taxi.
- QC Termeroma
Thermal pools, saunas and a garden in a Roman villa's grounds ten minutes from the airport; the day pass before the flight is the whole idea.
- Bastianelli al Molo
Fish on the harbour at Fiumicino, spaghetti with clams and a white from the Castelli, with the planes going over; the terminal is ten minutes away.