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Rome for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Every layer of the city is still open for business.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: The terrace and the garden bar

  1. Pincio terrace

    The balustrade above Piazza del Popolo for the late light on the domes, with a bench and the water clock in the trees behind.

  2. Stravinskij Bar, Hotel de Russie

    A negroni in the terraced garden of the hotel under the Pincio, with orange trees and no traffic; the price buys an hour of quiet.

  3. Il Marchese

    An amaro bar with a Roman kitchen, carbonara and a long list of bitters to finish; dinner at eight and in bed by ten, as planned.

Saturday: One gallery and a long lunch

  1. Galleria Borghese

    Two hours by timed ticket with Bernini's Apollo and Daphne and six Caravaggios in a garden villa; the only queue of the weekend, and worth it.

  2. Al Ceppo

    A Parioli dining room with a fireplace grill and a menu from the Marche, lunch stretching into the afternoon with a bottle from the cellar.

  3. Bar at Hotel Locarno

    An art-deco bar with a courtyard and a roof terrace, a cocktail before an early dinner; the lift is the original cage.

Sunday: The botanic garden

  1. Orto Botanico di Roma

    Twelve hectares on the slope of the Gianicolo, a Japanese garden, bamboo, and benches under palms; Sunday morning is the quiet hour.

  2. Antico Arco

    A long lunch on the hill above Trastevere, carbonara with a twist and a cellar of six hundred labels; the walk down afterwards is all downhill.

  3. Santa Maria in Trastevere

    The twelfth-century mosaics catching the late light, the square with its fountain and its loiterers; vespers at six, if you feel like staying.

Monday: The baths by the airport

  1. Campo de' Fiori market

    The flower and fruit stalls setting up under Giordano Bruno's statue, a coffee at the bar on the corner, and nothing else before the taxi.

  2. QC Termeroma

    Thermal pools, saunas and a garden in a Roman villa's grounds ten minutes from the airport; the day pass before the flight is the whole idea.

  3. Bastianelli al Molo

    Fish on the harbour at Fiumicino, spaghetti with clams and a white from the Castelli, with the planes going over; the terminal is ten minutes away.

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