Rome for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Every layer of the city is still open for business.
A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.
Friday: The square and the fountain
- Piazza Navona
The flat oval of a Roman stadium with three fountains, benches, and street painters; the eight-year-old and the eighty-year-old both have something to look at.
- Fontana di Trevi
A coin over the shoulder each, at the hour when the lights come on; the steps are the only climb and there are rails.
- Pierluigi
A big terrace on a quiet square, white tablecloths and a long table for eight; grilled fish for the grandparents and spaghetti for the rest.
Saturday: The Vatican and the river
- Vatican Museums
The one highlight, with lifts and a step-free route to the Sistine Chapel for anyone who asks; book the first slot and skip the long galleries.
- Hostaria Dino e Toni
A Prati trattoria near the Vatican walls with no menu, the courses arrive until you say stop; paper tablecloths and a family welcome.
- Battelli di Roma river cruise
An hour on the Tiber from Castel Sant'Angelo to the Tiber Island and back, seated, with the bridges and the plane trees going over.
Sunday: Trastevere and the island
- Santa Maria in Trastevere
The oldest church of Mary in the city, with golden mosaics and a square to sit in; the morning mass is sung, and the fountain steps are benches.
- Sora Lella
The Trabalza family's dining room on the Tiber island since 1959, Roman classics in big dishes for the table; lift from the street, and a long table upstairs.
- Isola Tiberina and Ponte Fabricio
The island in the river, reached by the oldest bridge in the city, flat all round, with a hospital, a church and a path for the pushchair.
Monday: The dome and the fake dome
- Pantheon
The dome with the hole in it, level floor from the door, and benches around the walls; go at opening before the square fills.
- Sant'Ignazio di Loyola
Pozzo's painted ceiling and a dome that is a flat canvas, best seen from the marble disc on the floor; the mirror on wheels saves the neck.
- Armando al Pantheon
A family trattoria behind the Pantheon since 1961, with a table for six if you book and a menu of the Roman dishes everyone knows the name of.