All cities · Rome

Rome for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Every layer of the city is still open for business.

A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.

Friday: The square and the fountain

  1. Piazza Navona

    The flat oval of a Roman stadium with three fountains, benches, and street painters; the eight-year-old and the eighty-year-old both have something to look at.

  2. Fontana di Trevi

    A coin over the shoulder each, at the hour when the lights come on; the steps are the only climb and there are rails.

  3. Pierluigi

    A big terrace on a quiet square, white tablecloths and a long table for eight; grilled fish for the grandparents and spaghetti for the rest.

Saturday: The Vatican and the river

  1. Vatican Museums

    The one highlight, with lifts and a step-free route to the Sistine Chapel for anyone who asks; book the first slot and skip the long galleries.

  2. Hostaria Dino e Toni

    A Prati trattoria near the Vatican walls with no menu, the courses arrive until you say stop; paper tablecloths and a family welcome.

  3. Battelli di Roma river cruise

    An hour on the Tiber from Castel Sant'Angelo to the Tiber Island and back, seated, with the bridges and the plane trees going over.

Sunday: Trastevere and the island

  1. Santa Maria in Trastevere

    The oldest church of Mary in the city, with golden mosaics and a square to sit in; the morning mass is sung, and the fountain steps are benches.

  2. Sora Lella

    The Trabalza family's dining room on the Tiber island since 1959, Roman classics in big dishes for the table; lift from the street, and a long table upstairs.

  3. Isola Tiberina and Ponte Fabricio

    The island in the river, reached by the oldest bridge in the city, flat all round, with a hospital, a church and a path for the pushchair.

Monday: The dome and the fake dome

  1. Pantheon

    The dome with the hole in it, level floor from the door, and benches around the walls; go at opening before the square fills.

  2. Sant'Ignazio di Loyola

    Pozzo's painted ceiling and a dome that is a flat canvas, best seen from the marble disc on the floor; the mirror on wheels saves the neck.

  3. Armando al Pantheon

    A family trattoria behind the Pantheon since 1961, with a table for six if you book and a menu of the Roman dishes everyone knows the name of.

Other ways to see Rome