Taipei for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Temples, tea hills, and a basin ringed by cloud.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: Forest, tea, and an early supper
- Da'an Forest Park
A long, flat walk through banyans and palms on a pond; there are enough benches to do the whole thing in an hour and have done nothing.
- Wistaria Tea House
A pot of oolong in a 1920s timber house with a garden outside; the staff are friendly, and the room is dark and quiet at the end of a long day.
- Du Hsiao Yueh, Yongkang Street
Tainan-style dan-zai noodles in a small bowl, a modest plate of greens and a pot of tea; a light supper and a short walk to bed.
Saturday: A thermal valley and a hot bath
- Beitou Hot Spring Museum
A grand 1913 bathhouse with a rooftop view and a tiled pool; sit on the tatami upstairs and read the guidebook with a free pot of tea.
- Villa 32 hot spring soak
A private soak room with a sulphur spring bath and a view of the hillside; book a two-hour slot, bring a book and nothing else.
- Din Tai Fung, Xinyi Road
Dumplings, soup and a plate of greens at a table with a booked time; an early, tidy dinner that leaves you in bed by ten.
Sunday: A long lunch at the top of the tower
- Taipei Botanical Garden
A hundred-year-old garden with a lotus pond and benches under the trees, a short walk from the National Museum; stay until the heat builds.
- Shin Yeh 101
Taiwanese banquet dishes in a room above the city: pork-knuckle, salted shrimp and sticky rice, with a window seat if you book ahead. Lunch will last two hours.
- Taipei 101 observatory
The lift is quick and the view is better after lunch than in the morning haze; walk once round the 89th floor and then go back down.
Monday: A garden and a mango ice
- Songshan Cultural and Creative Park
A former tobacco factory with a quiet lake, long corridors and a few good shops; the pond path takes twenty minutes and is mostly shaded.
- Eslite Spectrum Songyan bookstore
A beautiful bookstore with design books, a tea room and a long reading table; pick a seat, and spend the last morning the slow way.
- Smoothie House, Yongkang Street
The mango snow-ice shop of Yongkang Street: mango, mango sorbet and a little condensed milk, a very good way to finish a weekend.