Taipei for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Temples, tea hills, and a basin ringed by cloud.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Elephant Mountain at golden hour
- Elephant Mountain trail
Six hundred stone steps in twenty-five minutes to the rock platforms; Taipei 101 stands in the frame, and the stairs are packed with runners doing it twice.
- Taipei 101 observatory
Thirty-seven seconds to the 89th floor in the fastest lift in the world, then the 660-tonne tuned damper ball that swings to calm the tower; book a post-sunset slot.
- Lin Dong Fang Beef Noodles
Fat beef soup in a steaming bowl with a pot of pickled greens on the table; a fast, cheap refuel where the cooks do not stop moving.
Saturday: Dawn on Qixing and a hot soak
- Qixing Mountain summit
The 1,120 metre volcano: an hour up the ridge from the Xiaoyoukeng car park through grass and steaming fumaroles, with the whole basin laid out below by 8.
- Millennium Hot Spring
A public sulphur pool in a Beitou stone building; swimsuit, cap, a rinse first and a very hot dip, then a long cold shower. Best medicine for quads.
- Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle, Ximending
Thick pork-intestine and oyster vermicelli standing on the pavement with a crowd, strong with garlic and chilli, a cheap, fast recovery before the night market.
Sunday: Waterfalls and sky lanterns
- Sandiaoling Waterfall Trail
Three falls in a five kilometre mountain loop on a creek-side trail, ropes on the steep stretch; take the 08:00 train from Ruifang and carry spare socks.
- Releasing a sky lantern, Shifen Old Street
Write the wishes on four faces of a paper lantern and release it from the railway tracks; a freight train still comes through, and people move off the line for it.
- Raohe Street Night Market
Start at the temple gate with a peppery black-pepper bun blasted in a clay oven, then pork rib herbal soup and fried chicken cutlet; sweaty legs eat well here.
Monday: A riverside ride and a farewell bowl
- Tamsui River bikeway from Dadaocheng Wharf
A flat, car-free dawn run on rented YouBikes along the river toward Dajia and back, past fishermen and joggers; be back in time for breakfast before Huashan opens.
- Huashan 1914 Creative Park
A converted rice-wine factory of 1914 with brick warehouses and a lawn; read the sculptures and the posters before the exhibitions open and hear the old chimney hum.
- Jin Feng Braised Pork Rice
The braised pork rice in a tiny bowl, a plate of greens and a bowl of soup; a few queued minutes and a very cheap, very good carb stop before the airport.