Taipei for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Temples, tea hills, and a basin ringed by cloud.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Up Elephant Mountain, down to the counter
- Elephant Mountain trail
Climb the stone steps in twenty-five minutes to the rock platforms, where Taipei 101 stands at the centre of the frame and everybody else is also alone.
- Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall at dusk
Founding-father shrine with a hovering yellow-tile roof; the garden is a walkers' park and the hall's guards change on the hour until closing.
- Lin Dong Fang Beef Noodles
A single stool at a counter, a bowl of beef soup, a plate of pickles: quick and good for one, and nobody minds you eating by yourself.
Saturday: The river to the sea
- Riverside bike path to Tamsui
Rent a YouBike early and follow the river bikeway north to the mouth, mostly traffic-free and flat; the herons and fishermen work the mudflats while you ride.
- Tamsui to Bali ferry
A ten-minute crossing of the estuary for a coin or two, with a view back across the old town; the Bali side has a quiet promenade and a seafood stall.
- Liu Shandong Beef Noodle
Hand-cut noodles in a hot bowl with a slow-braised shin of beef and a stool at the counter; the place is busy at six and serves until nine.
Sunday: Gold hills and sky lanterns
- Jiufen Old Street
The gold-rush hill town above the sea: get the early bus before the tour buses, walk the lanes in the mist, and eat taro balls at the top of the stairs.
- Pingxi line to Shifen
A little branch railway through a forested valley; get off at Shifen, release a lantern and look at the waterfall, then take the train back before dark.
- Raohe Street Night Market
Eat the pepper bun at the gate, then a bowl of herbal pork rib soup standing at the counter; the stalls are built for one and you are never alone.
Monday: A gallery at opening
- National Palace Museum at opening
Be at the doors for 08:30 and go straight to the Jadeite Cabbage and the Meat-shaped Stone before the tour groups; the quiet rooms on the third floor are a pleasure.
- Shilin Official Residence
Chiang Kai-shek's garden residence, with rose beds, a small chapel and an orchid house; the walk takes an hour and the park benches are well placed.
- Shilin Market food court
The basement food court of the old market, with counters selling oyster omelettes, fish balls and beef noodles; sit at a counter, eat, and make your way to the airport.