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Taipei for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Temples, tea hills, and a basin ringed by cloud.

The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.

Friday: Up Elephant Mountain, down to the counter

  1. Elephant Mountain trail

    Climb the stone steps in twenty-five minutes to the rock platforms, where Taipei 101 stands at the centre of the frame and everybody else is also alone.

  2. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall at dusk

    Founding-father shrine with a hovering yellow-tile roof; the garden is a walkers' park and the hall's guards change on the hour until closing.

  3. Lin Dong Fang Beef Noodles

    A single stool at a counter, a bowl of beef soup, a plate of pickles: quick and good for one, and nobody minds you eating by yourself.

Saturday: The river to the sea

  1. Riverside bike path to Tamsui

    Rent a YouBike early and follow the river bikeway north to the mouth, mostly traffic-free and flat; the herons and fishermen work the mudflats while you ride.

  2. Tamsui to Bali ferry

    A ten-minute crossing of the estuary for a coin or two, with a view back across the old town; the Bali side has a quiet promenade and a seafood stall.

  3. Liu Shandong Beef Noodle

    Hand-cut noodles in a hot bowl with a slow-braised shin of beef and a stool at the counter; the place is busy at six and serves until nine.

Sunday: Gold hills and sky lanterns

  1. Jiufen Old Street

    The gold-rush hill town above the sea: get the early bus before the tour buses, walk the lanes in the mist, and eat taro balls at the top of the stairs.

  2. Pingxi line to Shifen

    A little branch railway through a forested valley; get off at Shifen, release a lantern and look at the waterfall, then take the train back before dark.

  3. Raohe Street Night Market

    Eat the pepper bun at the gate, then a bowl of herbal pork rib soup standing at the counter; the stalls are built for one and you are never alone.

Monday: A gallery at opening

  1. National Palace Museum at opening

    Be at the doors for 08:30 and go straight to the Jadeite Cabbage and the Meat-shaped Stone before the tour groups; the quiet rooms on the third floor are a pleasure.

  2. Shilin Official Residence

    Chiang Kai-shek's garden residence, with rose beds, a small chapel and an orchid house; the walk takes an hour and the park benches are well placed.

  3. Shilin Market food court

    The basement food court of the old market, with counters selling oyster omelettes, fish balls and beef noodles; sit at a counter, eat, and make your way to the airport.

Other ways to see Taipei