Algiers for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
El Bahdja, the white city on its amphitheatre of hills.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: A quiet arrival
- Jardin d'Essai du Hamma
A slow walk under the dragon trees, with a stop on a bench by the pond. The garden is calm before dusk.
- Sofitel Algiers Hamma Garden spa
A hammam and a massage in a hotel next to the garden. Book a late-afternoon slot and let the steam do the work.
- Dinner at Sofitel Hamma Garden
A quiet dinner with a view of the floodlit garden, and an early night upstairs. Order the fish of the day.
Saturday: One sight, a long lunch
- Notre-Dame d'Afrique
A taxi up the cliff and a long look over the bay. Sit on a bench and let the morning pass.
- Lunch at Hôtel El Djazaïr
A long lunch on the terrace, among palms and orange trees. Order the grilled fish and stay for coffee.
- Musée National du Bardo
A small, calm museum in a Moorish villa. Spend an hour in the courtyard and the rooms of rock-art copies.
Sunday: Roman ruins and a sea view
- Tipasa archaeological park
Roman ruins in a park above the sea. Walk the main street and sit by the water as long as you like.
- Hôtel Matarès
A fish lunch on the terrace above the ruins, with the Chenoua mountain across the bay. Take your time.
- Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania
The round tomb of Juba II and Cleopatra Selene, on a hill of pines. Sit for a while before the drive back.
Monday: A gentle farewell
- La Grande Poste
The white neo-Moorish post office, a short and gentle stop. Buy a stamp and walk through the arched hall.
- Musée National des Beaux-Arts
A quiet hour in galleries above the garden, with Algerian modernists on the walls and few other visitors.
- Brasserie des Facultés
A farewell lunch of grilled merguez and coffee. Sit by the window and let the street go by.