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Algiers for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

El Bahdja, the white city on its amphitheatre of hills.

The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.

Friday: Rooftops and a counter

  1. Notre-Dame d'Afrique

    Take a taxi up the cliff and wait for the light over the bay. The terrace has benches, and no one will mind if you stay an hour.

  2. Musée National des Beaux-Arts

    Open until late afternoon, and you can have the galleries to yourself. The Algerian modernists reward a slow walk.

  3. Karantika counter

    Hot chickpea flan on bread with harissa at a counter. The cheap solo supper that locals eat standing up.

Saturday: Ruins at your own pace

  1. Tipasa archaeological park

    Go early with a bottle of water and the park to yourself. The paths run down to the sea, and the sound of waves follows you everywhere.

  2. Fish at Tipaza harbour

    Grilled sardines or sea bream at a counter overlooking the boats. Order by weight, sit on a stool and watch the nets.

  3. Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania

    Finish at the Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, alone on its hill. A good bench for a quiet hour with a book before the road back.

Sunday: Heights and the garden

  1. Parc Dounya

    A forest park on the heights, with shaded trails and views over the city. A good place to walk before the heat.

  2. Jardin d'Essai du Hamma

    Dragon trees and avenues of ficus laid out in 1832. Read on a bench under the bamboo and watch Algerians stroll.

  3. Lunch at Brasserie des Facultés

    A counter seat, a plate of merguez and fries, and a coffee. Easy for one, and the waiters are friendly to a solo diner.

Monday: A last walk

  1. Casbah descent

    Walk down the Casbah stairs from the top terraces to the sea. Go early, when the lanes are quiet and the bakers are at work.

  2. Palais des Raïs, Bastion 23

    A restored fortress and palaces on the sea wall. A good small stop before you leave.

  3. M'hadjeb Mama Louiza

    A quick lunch of m'hadjeb, semolina flatbread folded around tomato and onion, eaten standing at the counter. Cheap and filling, and a short walk from the Grande Poste.

Other ways to see Algiers