Algiers for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
El Bahdja, the white city on its amphitheatre of hills.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Rooftops and a counter
- Notre-Dame d'Afrique
Take a taxi up the cliff and wait for the light over the bay. The terrace has benches, and no one will mind if you stay an hour.
- Musée National des Beaux-Arts
Open until late afternoon, and you can have the galleries to yourself. The Algerian modernists reward a slow walk.
- Karantika counter
Hot chickpea flan on bread with harissa at a counter. The cheap solo supper that locals eat standing up.
Saturday: Ruins at your own pace
- Tipasa archaeological park
Go early with a bottle of water and the park to yourself. The paths run down to the sea, and the sound of waves follows you everywhere.
- Fish at Tipaza harbour
Grilled sardines or sea bream at a counter overlooking the boats. Order by weight, sit on a stool and watch the nets.
- Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania
Finish at the Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, alone on its hill. A good bench for a quiet hour with a book before the road back.
Sunday: Heights and the garden
- Parc Dounya
A forest park on the heights, with shaded trails and views over the city. A good place to walk before the heat.
- Jardin d'Essai du Hamma
Dragon trees and avenues of ficus laid out in 1832. Read on a bench under the bamboo and watch Algerians stroll.
- Lunch at Brasserie des Facultés
A counter seat, a plate of merguez and fries, and a coffee. Easy for one, and the waiters are friendly to a solo diner.
Monday: A last walk
- Casbah descent
Walk down the Casbah stairs from the top terraces to the sea. Go early, when the lanes are quiet and the bakers are at work.
- Palais des Raïs, Bastion 23
A restored fortress and palaces on the sea wall. A good small stop before you leave.
- M'hadjeb Mama Louiza
A quick lunch of m'hadjeb, semolina flatbread folded around tomato and onion, eaten standing at the counter. Cheap and filling, and a short walk from the Grande Poste.