Algiers for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
El Bahdja, the white city on its amphitheatre of hills.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Up and over the Casbah
- Casbah descent
Start at the top terraces and drop through staircases and covered lanes to the port. A local guide from the Casbah association costs little and saves you wrong turns.
- Djamaa el Kebir
The Almoravid mosque of 1097, among the oldest in the Maghreb, a forest of white arches. Visit as the light fades and the fishermen head home.
- Karantika near Place des Martyrs
Hot chickpea flan in a flatbread with harissa, eaten standing at a counter. The cheapest and best fuel before a morning run in the hills.
Saturday: Chenoua and the Roman coast
- Mont Chenoua coastal path
Walk the cliff path under the mountain above the sea, with Roman Tipaza spread out below. Bring water; there is no shade and the climb is steep in places.
- Hôtel Matarès
Grilled sea bream and salad on the terrace above the ruins, the right reward for a morning on the hill. Order the fish by weight.
- Tipasa archaeological park
Basilicas, a theatre and a paved street running into the sea. Walk the full loop along the water, then finish at the museum by the entrance.
Sunday: The cedars and the tallest minaret
- Parc National de Chréa
Hike through cedar forest in the Blidean Atlas, with wild macaques on the verges. Take a taxi from Blida to the plateau and bring layers.
- Djamaa el Djazaïr minaret
Ride the glass lift up the tallest minaret in the world, 265 metres, and look down over the bay. Go late, when the haze lifts.
- Fish grills at the Pêcherie
Grilled sardines and calamari with bread and lemon in the old fishermen's quarter by the harbour. Eat early; the best fish goes first.
Monday: A last run
- Promenade des Sablettes
Several kilometres of seaside promenade, flat and empty at dawn. Run with the bay on your left and the huge new mosque ahead.
- Maqam Echahid and Musée du Moudjahid
Climb the plaza steps to the three concrete palm fronds, then walk the underground museum of the independence war. Flat, cool and quick.
- Brasserie des Facultés
A recovery plate of merguez, fries and salad before the airport, with a lemonade and a strong coffee.