Amsterdam for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Get there in the last hour, when stallholders shout prices down: stroopwafels pressed to order, Surinamese spice stalls and fish from IJmuiden.

A brown café of 1670 with sawdust on the floor; order bitterballen with mustard and a glass of jenever, and stay standing at the bar.

A Jordaan brown café that cooks properly: a short menu of Dutch classics, steak and a good wine list for a first-night dinner.

The Saturday organic farmers' market under the church: goat's cheese, wild mushrooms, and a slice of apple pie from Winkel 43 on the corner.

A guided tasting of one family's Gouda aged from one to three years, in a canal-house cellar with the wheels in front of you.

A kitchen garden among the office towers; the vegetable tasting menu is built from what came out of it that week. Book ahead.

The city's best-loved rijsttafel: a table filled with a dozen small Indonesian dishes, brought in turn. Order the lamb and the egg and share.

A small, free canal-side museum of Dutch cheese with samples and a shop; ask for the farm cheese and the old Beemster.

A tasting house for Dutch craft beers only, around 50 on tap; ask the bartender for something from the Zeeland or Friesland list.

A six-day street market with no tourists: Turkish bakers, a Dutch fishmonger and fabric stalls; eat a warm flatbread while you walk.

The old brewery, with a tasting at the end; skip the rides and go for the brewing room and the two beers poured at the bar.

The kroket counter since 1945: a hot beef croquette on a bread roll with mustard, eaten at the high table; open from lunchtime.