Amsterdam for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Brick, black water, and a bell every quarter hour.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: A courtyard and a sauna
- Begijnhof
The enclosed court of the beguines, with the city's last wooden house and a hush that arrives as the gate closes behind you.
- Sauna Deco
A 1920s Art Deco sauna on the Herengracht with a steam room, a plunge pool and a tiled relaxation lounge; book the evening slot.
- Wilde Zwijnen
A neighbourhood restaurant in the Indische Buurt cooking local, seasonal food in a bare-brick room; a short walk or tram from the centre, and an easy early night.
Saturday: Almshouse yards and a long lunch
- Claes Claesz. Hofje
A 1616 almshouse court in the Jordaan, with a lawn and a well and not a soul in it; ring the bell if the gate is shut.
- Café 't Smalle
A canal-side brown café of 1780; order a long lunch of sandwiches, cheese and a glass of wine on the terrace by the water.
- Huis Marseille
A museum of photography in two canal houses, with a garden; the rooms are small, unhurried and rarely busy.
Sunday: A park and a patrician house
- Vondelpark and the Blauwe Theehuis
A slow stroll along the water to the round blue tea house; take a table by the pond if the sun is out.
- Vondeltuin
A lunch in the park among the plane trees, with a terrace on the grass; the soup and salmon sandwich are the choice.
- Museum Van Loon
A canal house the family never quite left, with a fine staircase, silk wallpaper and a quiet garden; a tidy end to a slow day.
Monday: Apple pie and the glasshouse
- Winkel 43
The apple pie that Amsterdam queues for, with cream and strong coffee; take the table by the window and read.
- Hortus Botanicus
The 1638 physic garden; stand in the palm house and watch the rain, then have tea in the Orangery café.
- Café de Jaren
A big, light grand café on the Amstel with a waterside terrace; a long last lunch before the airport train.