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Amsterdam for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Brick, black water, and a bell every quarter hour.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Oldest stones

  1. Oude Kerk

    The city's oldest building, its floor made of some 2,500 gravestones; look down for Saskia van Uylenburgh, then up at the wooden vault.

  2. Wynand Fockink proeflokaal

    A 1679 distillery tasting room down an alley behind the Dam; the glass is filled to the brim and you bend to take the first sip.

  3. In de Waag

    Dinner inside the 1488 city weigh house, lit by several hundred candles; the upstairs room is where Rembrandt painted the anatomy lesson.

Saturday: The Golden Age

  1. Rijksmuseum

    Be at the door at opening and walk straight to the Night Watch; the Gallery of Honour has the whole seventeenth century on one corridor.

  2. Rembrandthuis

    The house where he lived and went bankrupt, with the etching press demonstrated daily and the original studio upstairs.

  3. Moeders

    Dutch home cooking in a room papered with photographs of mothers: stamppot, hutspot and apple pie, which is roughly how Amsterdam ate in the century you spent the day in.

Sunday: Brick bent into waves

  1. Het Schip guided tour

    Michel de Klerk's 1921 workers' housing with a post office inside; take the guided tour, since the street is the exhibit and the guide knows the gossip.

  2. Stedelijk Museum

    Weissman's 1895 building with the 2012 composite bathtub hung off it; argue about whether it works, then look at the Rietveld chairs inside.

  3. De Kas

    Eat inside a 1926 municipal greenhouse in Frankendael park, the vegetables picked that morning from the beds you walked past.

Monday: Berlage and the new library

  1. Beurs van Berlage

    The 1903 exchange that ended Dutch historicism: load-bearing brick, exposed iron trusses and ornament only where the structure asked for it.

  2. OBA Oosterdok

    Jo Coenen's 2007 public library, ten floors of escalators and reading terraces with free entry and a roof café view over the harbour.

  3. Hannekes Boom

    A waterside shack of salvaged timber opposite the library; a sandwich and a beer on the jetty before the airport train.

Other ways to see Amsterdam