Amsterdam for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Brick, black water, and a bell every quarter hour.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Oldest stones
- Oude Kerk
The city's oldest building, its floor made of some 2,500 gravestones; look down for Saskia van Uylenburgh, then up at the wooden vault.
- Wynand Fockink proeflokaal
A 1679 distillery tasting room down an alley behind the Dam; the glass is filled to the brim and you bend to take the first sip.
- In de Waag
Dinner inside the 1488 city weigh house, lit by several hundred candles; the upstairs room is where Rembrandt painted the anatomy lesson.
Saturday: The Golden Age
- Rijksmuseum
Be at the door at opening and walk straight to the Night Watch; the Gallery of Honour has the whole seventeenth century on one corridor.
- Rembrandthuis
The house where he lived and went bankrupt, with the etching press demonstrated daily and the original studio upstairs.
- Moeders
Dutch home cooking in a room papered with photographs of mothers: stamppot, hutspot and apple pie, which is roughly how Amsterdam ate in the century you spent the day in.
Sunday: Brick bent into waves
- Het Schip guided tour
Michel de Klerk's 1921 workers' housing with a post office inside; take the guided tour, since the street is the exhibit and the guide knows the gossip.
- Stedelijk Museum
Weissman's 1895 building with the 2012 composite bathtub hung off it; argue about whether it works, then look at the Rietveld chairs inside.
- De Kas
Eat inside a 1926 municipal greenhouse in Frankendael park, the vegetables picked that morning from the beds you walked past.
Monday: Berlage and the new library
- Beurs van Berlage
The 1903 exchange that ended Dutch historicism: load-bearing brick, exposed iron trusses and ornament only where the structure asked for it.
- OBA Oosterdok
Jo Coenen's 2007 public library, ten floors of escalators and reading terraces with free entry and a roof café view over the harbour.
- Hannekes Boom
A waterside shack of salvaged timber opposite the library; a sandwich and a beer on the jetty before the airport train.