Amsterdam for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A brewery in a windmill with a terrace of long tables; the Zatte tripel and a plate of cheese cubes set up the evening.

Amsterdam's temple of jazz, a glass-fronted hall on the IJ with bands from the Dutch and international scene; sit near the stage.

A speakeasy-style cocktail bar behind a plain door in the old gay quarter; reserve a seat, then order the bartender's choice.

Twenty counters under the old tram roof: bitterballen, bánh mì and a Dutch beer standing up; a late lunch to cover a long night.

A deconsecrated church turned rock venue since 1968; check the listing for a show and take a spot on the balcony.

A club in a former technical school, with a great sound system and a door policy that rewards turning up early.

A canal-side brown café of 1780 in the Jordaan; a slow lunch on the terrace by the water with a glass of jenever.

Take the free ferry behind Centraal to the folded white building; the foyer faces the city, and the afternoon screening is a good place to rest.

A former dairy turned venue with bands in the Max room; check the listing, buy the ticket early and expect it to run past midnight.

The apple pie that Amsterdam queues for, with cream and strong coffee; the right breakfast on the way home from a long night.

A Monday morning flea market of vintage clothes, silver and bric-à-brac; wander it slowly in sunglasses.

A brown café of 1642 on the corner of the Prinsengracht, with an apple tart and Delft-tiled walls; coffee, then the airport train.