All cities · Berlin

Berlin for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Concrete, linden, and a city that keeps starting over.

Eating is the itinerary. Breakfast where the porters eat, a market tour, the dish the city is known for in the place that does it best, and one serious dinner.

Friday: The hall and the glass

  1. Markthalle Neun

    The Friday market in the 1891 iron hall: Sironi's focaccia, Brandenburg cheese and the butcher who names the farm; eat something at every second stall.

  2. Mustafas Gemüse Kebap

    The vegetable kebab the city queues for, roasted aubergine and feta in the bread; forty minutes in line is part of the dish.

  3. Rutz Weinbar

    The wine bar under a two-star kitchen, a flight of German Rieslings by the glass with the sommelier explaining the slate; book a counter stool.

Saturday: Market, class, and the serious dinner

  1. Kollwitzplatz farmers' market

    The Saturday market at opening: Uckermark goat cheese, smoked fish from the Havel, and the bread stall that sells out by eleven.

  2. Goldhahn und Sampson cooking class

    A delicatessen with a teaching kitchen upstairs; four hours on a Berlin or seasonal menu, aprons and lunch included, booked ahead.

  3. Tim Raue

    Michelin-starred and no bread: Peking duck in three services and wasabi langoustine, Raue's Asian menu in a plain room off Checkpoint Charlie. Book a month out.

Sunday: Breakfast, Thai park, Buletten

  1. Café Einstein Unter den Linden

    A Viennese-style breakfast in a coffeehouse on Unter den Linden: soft eggs in a glass, Apfelstrudel and a Melange, with the newspapers on their sticks. Go early.

  2. Thaipark

    The Sunday Thai street-food market that began as picnics on the grass, now in a pavilion: papaya salad pounded to order, grilled pork, mango sticky rice.

  3. Max und Moritz

    Buletten with potato salad and a Kreuzberger Molle under a tin ceiling of 1902; the Berlin dish in the room it belongs to.

Monday: Buns, a hall and a last sausage

  1. Zeit für Brot

    The cinnamon bun that spawned a queue, pulled from the oven while you watch through the glass; take two for the train.

  2. Marheineke Markthalle

    Kreuzberg's other market hall, open on a Monday, with a cheese counter, Turkish grocers and the Bergmannstraße cafés on the square outside.

  3. Witty's

    Organic Currywurst opposite KaDeWe, fries with the mayonnaise and ketchup both, standing at the counter before the U-Bahn to the airport.

Other ways to see Berlin