Berlin for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Concrete, linden, and a city that keeps starting over.
Eating is the itinerary. Breakfast where the porters eat, a market tour, the dish the city is known for in the place that does it best, and one serious dinner.
Friday: The hall and the glass
- Markthalle Neun
The Friday market in the 1891 iron hall: Sironi's focaccia, Brandenburg cheese and the butcher who names the farm; eat something at every second stall.
- Mustafas Gemüse Kebap
The vegetable kebab the city queues for, roasted aubergine and feta in the bread; forty minutes in line is part of the dish.
- Rutz Weinbar
The wine bar under a two-star kitchen, a flight of German Rieslings by the glass with the sommelier explaining the slate; book a counter stool.
Saturday: Market, class, and the serious dinner
- Kollwitzplatz farmers' market
The Saturday market at opening: Uckermark goat cheese, smoked fish from the Havel, and the bread stall that sells out by eleven.
- Goldhahn und Sampson cooking class
A delicatessen with a teaching kitchen upstairs; four hours on a Berlin or seasonal menu, aprons and lunch included, booked ahead.
- Tim Raue
Michelin-starred and no bread: Peking duck in three services and wasabi langoustine, Raue's Asian menu in a plain room off Checkpoint Charlie. Book a month out.
Sunday: Breakfast, Thai park, Buletten
- Café Einstein Unter den Linden
A Viennese-style breakfast in a coffeehouse on Unter den Linden: soft eggs in a glass, Apfelstrudel and a Melange, with the newspapers on their sticks. Go early.
- Thaipark
The Sunday Thai street-food market that began as picnics on the grass, now in a pavilion: papaya salad pounded to order, grilled pork, mango sticky rice.
- Max und Moritz
Buletten with potato salad and a Kreuzberger Molle under a tin ceiling of 1902; the Berlin dish in the room it belongs to.
Monday: Buns, a hall and a last sausage
- Zeit für Brot
The cinnamon bun that spawned a queue, pulled from the oven while you watch through the glass; take two for the train.
- Marheineke Markthalle
Kreuzberg's other market hall, open on a Monday, with a cheese counter, Turkish grocers and the Bergmannstraße cafés on the square outside.
- Witty's
Organic Currywurst opposite KaDeWe, fries with the mayonnaise and ketchup both, standing at the counter before the U-Bahn to the airport.