Berlin for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Concrete, linden, and a city that keeps starting over.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Kulturforum
- Neue Nationalgalerie
Mies van der Rohe's steel temple of 1968, every bolt renewed by Chipperfield, the glass hall empty enough to read the grid.
- Staatsbibliothek reading-room terraces
Scharoun's stepped landscape of desks and lamps, the library the angels listened in on in Wings of Desire.
- Zur letzten Instanz
Berlin's oldest restaurant by its own account, open since 1621, with a tiled stove and Eisbein on the menu; the right dinner for a weekend of history. Book ahead.
Saturday: The old town, in what is left of it
- Neues Museum
Chipperfield's reconstruction of Stüler's ruin: the lost staircase hall rebuilt in raw brick and pale concrete, scars left showing.
- Nikolaikirche
The city's oldest church, begun around 1230, rebuilt by the GDR in 1987 with the whole Nikolaiviertel around it; the museum inside explains which stones are real.
- Zur letzten Instanz
Berlin's oldest tavern, serving since 1621 beside a surviving stretch of the medieval wall; Eisbein at the tiled stove, with Napoleon's visit on the menu's cover.
Sunday: The Siedlungen and the Interbau
- Hufeisensiedlung
Bruno Taut's horseshoe of 1925 around a glacial pond, then the Rote Front along Fritz-Reuter-Allee, colour as a social programme.
- Hansaviertel, Interbau 1957
Aalto, Niemeyer, Gropius and Jacobsen within ten minutes of one another, with Düttmann's Akademie der Künste on Hanseatenweg.
- Mogg
Pastrami in the refectory of Alexander Beer's 1930 New Objectivity school, the tiles and terrazzo original.
Monday: Zinc, glass and the dome
- Jüdisches Museum
Libeskind's zinc zigzag entered through the baroque Kollegienhaus, the tilted columns of the Garden of Exile and the Voids.
- Reichstag guided tour and dome
The ninety-minute tour booked weeks ahead: Soviet soldiers' graffiti kept on the walls, the plenary chamber, then Foster's spiral under the glass.
- Käfer Dachgarten im Reichstag
Lunch on the roof beside Foster's dome, booked ahead so the reservation gets you through security.