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Berlin for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Concrete, linden, and a city that keeps starting over.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Kulturforum

  1. Neue Nationalgalerie

    Mies van der Rohe's steel temple of 1968, every bolt renewed by Chipperfield, the glass hall empty enough to read the grid.

  2. Staatsbibliothek reading-room terraces

    Scharoun's stepped landscape of desks and lamps, the library the angels listened in on in Wings of Desire.

  3. Zur letzten Instanz

    Berlin's oldest restaurant by its own account, open since 1621, with a tiled stove and Eisbein on the menu; the right dinner for a weekend of history. Book ahead.

Saturday: The old town, in what is left of it

  1. Neues Museum

    Chipperfield's reconstruction of Stüler's ruin: the lost staircase hall rebuilt in raw brick and pale concrete, scars left showing.

  2. Nikolaikirche

    The city's oldest church, begun around 1230, rebuilt by the GDR in 1987 with the whole Nikolaiviertel around it; the museum inside explains which stones are real.

  3. Zur letzten Instanz

    Berlin's oldest tavern, serving since 1621 beside a surviving stretch of the medieval wall; Eisbein at the tiled stove, with Napoleon's visit on the menu's cover.

Sunday: The Siedlungen and the Interbau

  1. Hufeisensiedlung

    Bruno Taut's horseshoe of 1925 around a glacial pond, then the Rote Front along Fritz-Reuter-Allee, colour as a social programme.

  2. Hansaviertel, Interbau 1957

    Aalto, Niemeyer, Gropius and Jacobsen within ten minutes of one another, with Düttmann's Akademie der Künste on Hanseatenweg.

  3. Mogg

    Pastrami in the refectory of Alexander Beer's 1930 New Objectivity school, the tiles and terrazzo original.

Monday: Zinc, glass and the dome

  1. Jüdisches Museum

    Libeskind's zinc zigzag entered through the baroque Kollegienhaus, the tilted columns of the Garden of Exile and the Voids.

  2. Reichstag guided tour and dome

    The ninety-minute tour booked weeks ahead: Soviet soldiers' graffiti kept on the walls, the plenary chamber, then Foster's spiral under the glass.

  3. Käfer Dachgarten im Reichstag

    Lunch on the roof beside Foster's dome, booked ahead so the reservation gets you through security.

Other ways to see Berlin