All cities · Berlin

Berlin for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Concrete, linden, and a city that keeps starting over.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: Trees, steam, and a lakeside table

  1. Tiergarten

    An hour's wander from the Siegessäule to the Rousseauinsel on the gravel paths, benches every hundred metres and no need to see anything.

  2. Vabali Spa

    A Balinese-style spa village of saunas and warm pools behind the Hauptbahnhof, an evening ticket for three hours; towels and quiet provided.

  3. Café am Neuen See

    A lakeside restaurant inside the park, Flammkuchen or a Schnitzel on the terrace with the rowing boats tied up for the night.

Saturday: Cake, one gallery, a long lunch

  1. Café Buchwald

    Baumkuchen made on a spit since 1852, breakfast on the Spree bank where the family has sold it for five generations.

  2. Gemäldegalerie

    Vermeer, Rembrandt and the Cranachs in daylight rooms with sofas; pick one wing, sit in front of three pictures, leave before you tire.

  3. Lutter & Wegner

    A late lunch of Wiener Schnitzel and a Riesling in the wine house where Sekt was named, the afternoon allowed to run on into evening.

Sunday: Garden, brasserie, and a 1914 bath

  1. Schlossgarten Charlottenburg

    The palace garden without the palace ticket: the baroque parterre, the carp pond and a bench on the Spree side, free and mostly empty.

  2. Brasserie Lamazère

    A Sunday lunch of confit and a Bordeaux in a Charlottenburg brasserie that keeps French hours; coffee comes when you ask for it.

  3. Stadtbad Neukölln

    A 1914 municipal bath built like a Roman villa, mosaic columns around the pool and a sauna upstairs; an hour's swim, then the steam.

Monday: Floating, glasshouses, lunch

  1. Liquidrom

    A domed saltwater pool with music played underwater, open from nine; two hours of floating in the dark before the day has to start.

  2. Botanischer Garten Berlin

    Forty-three hectares and a 1907 iron glasshouse of palms and tree ferns, warm whatever the weather; the Italian garden has the benches.

  3. Mutter Hoppe

    Grandmother's cooking in the rebuilt old quarter, Sauerbraten and a beer at a wooden table, the portions sized for a long train journey.

Other ways to see Berlin