Berlin for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Concrete, linden, and a city that keeps starting over.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Rooftop, tapas, a hidden door
- Klunkerkranich
A rooftop garden bar on a shopping-centre car park, sunset over the whole flat city; a small cover charge after dark.
- Bar Raval
Daniel Brühl's tapas bar by the Görlitzer Park, tortilla and pimientos until late, the first drink of the night taken at the bar.
- Buck and Breck
An unmarked door, a buzzer, and fourteen seats around one black table; cocktails made slowly, no standing, no photographs.
Saturday: Brunch, a gig, the queue
- Café Anna Blume
A tiered breakfast platter for two under the flower shop's roses, the first meal of a day that will end at dawn.
- SO36
The punk hall where Bowie and Iggy watched the Wall-era bands, still a concert venue most nights; check the listings and buy at the door.
- Berghain
The power-station club that opens at midnight and closes on Monday; no phones, no guarantees at the door, and the Panorama Bar at sunrise.
Sunday: Dawn breakfast, karaoke, jazz
- Schwarzes Café
Open all night since 1978, dim stairs and a mirrored room upstairs; scrambled eggs and a coffee with the others still in last night's clothes.
- Bearpit Karaoke, Mauerpark
The Sunday amphitheatre where thousands watch strangers sing; a bike-trailer sound system and a crowd that applauds anything brave.
- Quasimodo
A jazz and blues cellar under the Delphi cinema since 1975, low ceiling and a late set; a short walk from where the morning began.
Monday: Eggs, the Wall, and the river
- Benedict
Breakfast around the clock, shakshuka and pancakes in a hotel dining room that does not care what time you got in.
- East Side Gallery
The longest surviving stretch of Wall, 1.3 kilometres of murals on the river side; a slow walk past the fraternal kiss on the way out.
- Holzmarkt 25
A village of sheds, a bakery and the Kater Blau club on the Spree bank, built by the people who ran Bar 25; a last coffee by the water.