Dublin for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Georgian brick, black water, and talk in every doorway.
No theme, just the city at its best. The sights that earn their reputation, a workshop or a market, one strange place nobody told you about, and dinner where the food is the point.
Friday: Drury Street to the Liberties
- Irish Design Shop
Two jewellers' shop stocked only with Irish makers: Arran Street East pots, Mourne textiles, and the knives and brushes you will want to carry home.
- Teeling Whiskey Distillery
The first new distillery in the Liberties in over a century, in the quarter that once had thirty; the tour ends at the copper stills with three drams.
- Spitalfields
A corner pub on the Liberties' oldest market street turned into a serious kitchen, with pies, offal, and a cheese trolley the cooks of the city come for.
Saturday: Makers and the gaol
- Cow's Lane Designer Mart
The Saturday makers' market on the cobbled lane behind Essex Street: printmakers, leather, ceramics, and no tat.
- Kilmainham Gaol
The Victorian east wing's glass-roofed panopticon and the stone-breakers' yard where the 1916 leaders were shot; book the tour, it sells out weeks ahead.
- Bar 1661
A dim bar named for the year poitín was outlawed, with a Belfast Coffee made from it and a short menu of toasties and oysters.
Sunday: Manuscripts under the castle
- Dublin Castle Medieval Undercroft
The guided route goes below the state apartments to the Viking-era wall, the moat steps, and the stump of the Powder Tower.
- The Chester Beatty
A mining magnate's collection of Islamic astrolabe treatises, alchemical and medical scrolls, and papyrus gospels, free and in a quiet wing behind the castle.
- Fish Shop
A tiny room across from the barracks serving whatever came off the day boats, with natural wine and a chalkboard that changes nightly.
Monday: Cheese and clay
- Sheridans Cheesemongers
The counter that built the Irish farmhouse-cheese trade; ask for the Durrus and the Coolea and whatever is best this week.
- Arran Street East pottery
The studio behind the shop throws the pots sold across the city; a taster session at the wheel gets you one fired and posted.
- Grogan's Castle Lounge
A ham and cheese toastie and a pint under paintings for sale, in the pub where the city's writers have been not writing since 1973.