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Dublin for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Georgian brick, black water, and talk in every doorway.

No theme, just the city at its best. The sights that earn their reputation, a workshop or a market, one strange place nobody told you about, and dinner where the food is the point.

Friday: Drury Street to the Liberties

  1. Irish Design Shop

    Two jewellers' shop stocked only with Irish makers: Arran Street East pots, Mourne textiles, and the knives and brushes you will want to carry home.

  2. Teeling Whiskey Distillery

    The first new distillery in the Liberties in over a century, in the quarter that once had thirty; the tour ends at the copper stills with three drams.

  3. Spitalfields

    A corner pub on the Liberties' oldest market street turned into a serious kitchen, with pies, offal, and a cheese trolley the cooks of the city come for.

Saturday: Makers and the gaol

  1. Cow's Lane Designer Mart

    The Saturday makers' market on the cobbled lane behind Essex Street: printmakers, leather, ceramics, and no tat.

  2. Kilmainham Gaol

    The Victorian east wing's glass-roofed panopticon and the stone-breakers' yard where the 1916 leaders were shot; book the tour, it sells out weeks ahead.

  3. Bar 1661

    A dim bar named for the year poitín was outlawed, with a Belfast Coffee made from it and a short menu of toasties and oysters.

Sunday: Manuscripts under the castle

  1. Dublin Castle Medieval Undercroft

    The guided route goes below the state apartments to the Viking-era wall, the moat steps, and the stump of the Powder Tower.

  2. The Chester Beatty

    A mining magnate's collection of Islamic astrolabe treatises, alchemical and medical scrolls, and papyrus gospels, free and in a quiet wing behind the castle.

  3. Fish Shop

    A tiny room across from the barracks serving whatever came off the day boats, with natural wine and a chalkboard that changes nightly.

Monday: Cheese and clay

  1. Sheridans Cheesemongers

    The counter that built the Irish farmhouse-cheese trade; ask for the Durrus and the Coolea and whatever is best this week.

  2. Arran Street East pottery

    The studio behind the shop throws the pots sold across the city; a taster session at the wheel gets you one fired and posted.

  3. Grogan's Castle Lounge

    A ham and cheese toastie and a pint under paintings for sale, in the pub where the city's writers have been not writing since 1973.

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