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Dublin for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Georgian brick, black water, and talk in every doorway.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Deer, wall, burger

  1. Phoenix Park by bike

    Hire at the Parkgate entrance and ride the seven-kilometre avenue to the Papal Cross and the Fifteen Acres, where the fallow deer stand their ground.

  2. Awesome Walls Dublin

    Ireland's biggest climbing centre in an old warehouse, with lead walls to eighteen metres and a bouldering hall; an intro session covers the belay check.

  3. Bunsen

    A menu the size of a business card: burger, cheeseburger, fries three ways; the recovery meal that takes twelve minutes and no decisions.

Saturday: Glendalough and the Vico

  1. The Spinc, Glendalough

    St Kevin's bus from St Stephen's Green, then the nine-kilometre boardwalk loop up the Spinc ridge above the lakes and down past the miners' village.

  2. Vico Baths

    A rock-cut swimming spot below the Vico Road where locals swim all year; steps into the sea, a changing shelter, and Killiney Bay in front of you.

  3. Mister S

    Everything cooked over a wood fire in a long tiled room: the short rib, the charred greens, and a bottle of something from the Loire for the table.

Sunday: Mountains, then the sea

  1. Ticknock and the Fairy Castle

    The Dublin Mountains Way up through the pines to Three Rock and the Fairy Castle cairn at 536 m, with the whole bay below; back by the 44 bus.

  2. Sea kayaking to Dalkey Island

    A guided two-hour paddle out of the harbour round Dalkey Island, seals surfacing alongside and the Martello tower above; wetsuits and kayaks included.

  3. Paulie's Pizza

    Thin Neapolitan pizza from a wood oven by the canal, with a long bar for a group that smells of the sea; no reservations after eight.

Monday: Strand and the dock

  1. Sandymount Strand at low tide

    The flat sands Stephen Dedalus walked, three kilometres out to the Poolbeg chimneys; run it at low water, with the DART back from Sandymount.

  2. Surfdock

    Paddleboards and windsurfing on the sheltered dock in the middle of the city, with a wetsuit and a board for an hour between the glass offices.

  3. The Fumbally

    Eggs on sourdough, kimchi and a flat white in a bright corner room in the Liberties, where the city's cyclists eat before the airport bus.

Other ways to see Dublin