Dublin for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Georgian brick, black water, and talk in every doorway.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Deer, wall, burger
- Phoenix Park by bike
Hire at the Parkgate entrance and ride the seven-kilometre avenue to the Papal Cross and the Fifteen Acres, where the fallow deer stand their ground.
- Awesome Walls Dublin
Ireland's biggest climbing centre in an old warehouse, with lead walls to eighteen metres and a bouldering hall; an intro session covers the belay check.
- Bunsen
A menu the size of a business card: burger, cheeseburger, fries three ways; the recovery meal that takes twelve minutes and no decisions.
Saturday: Glendalough and the Vico
- The Spinc, Glendalough
St Kevin's bus from St Stephen's Green, then the nine-kilometre boardwalk loop up the Spinc ridge above the lakes and down past the miners' village.
- Vico Baths
A rock-cut swimming spot below the Vico Road where locals swim all year; steps into the sea, a changing shelter, and Killiney Bay in front of you.
- Mister S
Everything cooked over a wood fire in a long tiled room: the short rib, the charred greens, and a bottle of something from the Loire for the table.
Sunday: Mountains, then the sea
- Ticknock and the Fairy Castle
The Dublin Mountains Way up through the pines to Three Rock and the Fairy Castle cairn at 536 m, with the whole bay below; back by the 44 bus.
- Sea kayaking to Dalkey Island
A guided two-hour paddle out of the harbour round Dalkey Island, seals surfacing alongside and the Martello tower above; wetsuits and kayaks included.
- Paulie's Pizza
Thin Neapolitan pizza from a wood oven by the canal, with a long bar for a group that smells of the sea; no reservations after eight.
Monday: Strand and the dock
- Sandymount Strand at low tide
The flat sands Stephen Dedalus walked, three kilometres out to the Poolbeg chimneys; run it at low water, with the DART back from Sandymount.
- Surfdock
Paddleboards and windsurfing on the sheltered dock in the middle of the city, with a wetsuit and a board for an hour between the glass offices.
- The Fumbally
Eggs on sourdough, kimchi and a flat white in a bright corner room in the Liberties, where the city's cyclists eat before the airport bus.