Dublin for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Georgian brick, black water, and talk in every doorway.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Duck, gig, door
- Hang Dai
A room lit like a subway car, red leather and a drum kit, with duck roasted over Irish fire and a cocktail list that does not explain itself.
- A gig at Whelan's
The pub-venue the city's bands came through, two rooms and a late bar; whoever is on, the main room sounds right and the pint is fine.
- The Workman's Club
A former working men's club on the river with a different room for every mood, a roof terrace and a floor that goes until three.
Saturday: Basement to ballroom
- Brother Hubbard North
A Middle Eastern brunch of shakshuka and halloumi in the Capel Street room, the one that does not mind you arriving in last night's shirt.
- 9 Below
A cocktail bar down a flight of stairs with a door you have to find, leather booths and a list that leans on Irish whiskey.
- Pygmalion
The club in the Georgian mansion's courtyard, house and disco under the arches until late; the smoking terrace is where the night gets planned.
Sunday: Stoneybatter to the Oak
- L. Mulligan Grocer
A Sunday roast in a Stoneybatter pub that takes its beer and its menu seriously; the scotch egg and a craft stout get you upright.
- Smithfield Square
The old horse-fair square under the Jameson chimney, with the Light House cinema and the Cobblestone at the corner for the evening session.
- Comedy at The International Bar
A Victorian pub with a comedy club upstairs every night, where half the Irish comedians you know started; cheap, close, and nobody is safe.
Monday: The early house
- The Windjammer
An early house licensed to open at seven for the dockers; a pint or a coffee with the night-shift crowd, then a breakfast roll from the shop next door.
- St Stephen's Green
A bench by the duck pond for the sun, the bandstand and the bust of James Joyce, while the city gets to work around you.
- Gallagher's Boxty House
Potato pancakes wrapped round beef and Guinness stew, the last Irish plate before the Airlink bus from the quays.