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Dublin for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Georgian brick, black water, and talk in every doorway.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: One gallery, one square

  1. National Gallery of Ireland

    Free, with the Caravaggio found in a Jesuit dining room and a room of Jack Yeats; pick one wing and leave the rest for another year.

  2. Merrion Square

    A bench in the railed garden among the Georgian doors, Wilde on his rock in the corner; the sculptures and the lamps come on around six.

  3. The Vintage Kitchen

    A small room by the old Theatre Royal that lets you bring your own wine, with slow braises and a table you keep all night.

Saturday: Spa, lunch, garden

  1. The Merrion Spa

    An infinity pool under a vaulted ceiling and a treatment in the hotel made of four Georgian houses; book a morning slot and stay for the steam room.

  2. Hugo's

    A long lunch in a corner room of mirrors and banquettes, with a set menu that unhurriedly runs to three courses and a half bottle of Sancerre.

  3. Iveagh Gardens

    A bench by the cascade in the Guinness family's walled garden, with the maze and the rosarium and nothing you are obliged to look at.

Sunday: The pier at an amble

  1. Dún Laoghaire East Pier

    The DART to the harbour, then the granite pier the Victorians built for promenading, a bandstand halfway and a Teddy's ice cream at the end.

  2. Hartley's

    Lunch in the old ferry terminal's booking hall with the harbour in the window, fish pie and a glass of something cold, no clock on the wall.

  3. James Joyce Tower

    The Martello tower where Ulysses opens, with Joyce's waistcoat and the gun-platform view across the bay; free, kept by volunteers, closes early.

Monday: Scrolls and a café

  1. The Chester Beatty

    Open at ten and empty for the first hour: Japanese scrolls, Qurans and Egyptian papyri in low light, with a roof garden for the sun.

  2. Brother Hubbard

    A Middle Eastern-leaning menu at a Capel Street café, Turkish eggs or mezze and a slow coffee, with a pastry for the last cup of the weekend.

  3. Dubh Linn Garden

    Twenty minutes on the castle lawn among the brick walls before the taxi, the city's black pool now a circle of grass.

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