Dublin for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Georgian brick, black water, and talk in every doorway.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: One gallery, one square
- National Gallery of Ireland
Free, with the Caravaggio found in a Jesuit dining room and a room of Jack Yeats; pick one wing and leave the rest for another year.
- Merrion Square
A bench in the railed garden among the Georgian doors, Wilde on his rock in the corner; the sculptures and the lamps come on around six.
- The Vintage Kitchen
A small room by the old Theatre Royal that lets you bring your own wine, with slow braises and a table you keep all night.
Saturday: Spa, lunch, garden
- The Merrion Spa
An infinity pool under a vaulted ceiling and a treatment in the hotel made of four Georgian houses; book a morning slot and stay for the steam room.
- Hugo's
A long lunch in a corner room of mirrors and banquettes, with a set menu that unhurriedly runs to three courses and a half bottle of Sancerre.
- Iveagh Gardens
A bench by the cascade in the Guinness family's walled garden, with the maze and the rosarium and nothing you are obliged to look at.
Sunday: The pier at an amble
- Dún Laoghaire East Pier
The DART to the harbour, then the granite pier the Victorians built for promenading, a bandstand halfway and a Teddy's ice cream at the end.
- Hartley's
Lunch in the old ferry terminal's booking hall with the harbour in the window, fish pie and a glass of something cold, no clock on the wall.
- James Joyce Tower
The Martello tower where Ulysses opens, with Joyce's waistcoat and the gun-platform view across the bay; free, kept by volunteers, closes early.
Monday: Scrolls and a café
- The Chester Beatty
Open at ten and empty for the first hour: Japanese scrolls, Qurans and Egyptian papyri in low light, with a roof garden for the sun.
- Brother Hubbard
A Middle Eastern-leaning menu at a Capel Street café, Turkish eggs or mezze and a slow coffee, with a pastry for the last cup of the weekend.
- Dubh Linn Garden
Twenty minutes on the castle lawn among the brick walls before the taxi, the city's black pool now a circle of grass.