Havana for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The marble promenade with bronze lions is where the neighbourhood children skate after school; there are benches the whole length and a lion at each end to climb.

A courtyard café in a restored colonial house on the square with tostones, sandwiches and fresh juices; the children can run on the plaza between courses.

Soldiers in eighteenth-century uniform march to the ramparts and fire the cannon at nine, as they have every night since the colony; get there by half past eight.

The national aquarium by the sea with a dolphin show at eleven and a sea lion one after; small, shaded and done by lunch.

Roast chicken, rice and black beans under thatched roofs, served fast and refilled; the easiest lunch in Havana for a family of any size.

The river park with its banyan roots and iron bridge, rowing boats for hire at the pontoon and a playground; after the nap, before dinner.

Ramparts to walk, cannon to sit on and the lighthouse to climb; a taxi through the tunnel takes ten minutes and the view back at the city makes the morning.

Up a dark staircase opposite the Capitolio to a wood-panelled hall of enormous portions, lobster and lamb for a family at prices that make sense.

A lift to the roof and a dark room where the city turns on a white dish, with a guide who zooms in on the washing lines; ten minutes and children are gripped.

A chocolate kitchen with a few display cases and a counter; hot chocolate for breakfast and truffles in a box for the journey home.

The flattest, safest square in the old town for running about, with a fountain in the middle and arcades for shade; the last stretch of legs before the plane.

A 1950s-styled corner café on the square with a band most afternoons, chicken and rice, and milkshakes; sit outside and let the children watch the music.