Havana for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A slow half-hour along the seawall from La Rampa, no further than the hotel's headland, and back; the point is the light, not the distance.

The hall of the hotel's famous guests, Churchill to Nat King Cole, then the garden bar with a mojito and the cannons from 1895 for company.

A 1950s house on the water with a pool that spills into the sea and tables along the edge; lobster, a bottle of white, and no reason to leave.

The hotel in the old Manzana de Gómez arcade keeps the city's one proper spa: a massage, the hammam and the rooftop pool over the Parque Central afterwards.

Carlos Cristóbal Márquez's rooms of antiques and saints where the Obamas ate; the lunch runs long on purpose, with a cigar offered at the end.

The baroque square after the day groups have gone, with the café tables out and a trio playing under the arcade; one coffee, one hour.

The Cuban building of the national gallery, open Sunday mornings: Wifredo Lam and Amelia Peláez on the second floor, benches in every room.

A charcoal grill in a colonial house with a courtyard, suckling pig and a long Sunday lunch; order the yuca con mojo and let the afternoon go.

The small 1590 fort at the harbour mouth, with the Morro opposite and the sun going down behind the seawall; the wall here is the best bench in town.

The cobbled square by the cruise terminal, with the Fuente de los Leones, the pigeons and the chairs of the Café del Oriente for a late coffee in the sun.

The cage lift to the room Hemingway kept in the 1930s, his typewriter and a view of the harbour, then the roof bar for a last look down Obispo.

A small Italian-Cuban corner by the Loma del Ángel, wood-fired pizza and a plate of pasta before the taxi; it is quick when you need it to be.