Havana for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Martín Domínguez's 1956 Y-plan tower, 39 storeys of poured concrete and the tallest building in Cuba for sixty years; the bar on top opens at dusk.

Welton Becket's 1958 Hilton, with Amelia Peláez's ceramic mural over the entrance and the lobby Castro ran the country from in 1959.

A modernist villa stripped back to white walls and steel, with a tasting menu that treats the tropics with restraint.

The 1589 fortress the British took in 1762 by mining the wall, with its powder stores and tunnels and the 1845 lighthouse above the bay mouth.

Roast chicken, black beans and rice under open thatched bohíos, the state restaurant that works; the recipe is a 1940s one and they refill the beans.

Max Borges's 1951 thin-shell concrete arches, five vaults of glass under the trees, with the cabaret as the excuse and a bottle of rum on the table.

Porro, Garatti and Gottardi's 1961 Catalan-vaulted brick schools on an old golf course, half ruin and half still in use; the guided walk is the tour worth taking.

The 1930 art-deco rum headquarters in terracotta and granite; ask the doorman for the lift to the bat on the tower and the view of the Capitolio dome.

A paladar up a worn marble staircase in a Centro Habana mansion, where the film Fresa y Chocolate was shot. Book days ahead and climb slowly.

The presidential palace with Tiffany interiors, the bullet holes from the 1957 student assault on the stairs, and the Granma yacht in a glass pavilion behind.

The 1929 dome regilded and reopened in 2018, the Salón de los Pasos Perdidos with its bronze doors and the diamond set in the floor as kilometre zero.

The bar where Hemingway drank frozen daiquiris and the Havana of 1950 made its deals; his bronze still leans on the bar end. Lunch is shrimp, the drink is the point.