Havana for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Salt on the seawall, rum in the ruins.
A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.
Friday: The first square
- Plaza de Armas
The oldest square, flat and shaded, with benches around the Céspedes statue and the book stalls for the children to rummage; the wooden street was laid to quiet the carriages.
- Castillo de la Real Fuerza
The 1577 fort on the square, with ship models for the children and the Giraldilla weathervane for the grandparents; the ground floor has no steps.
- Café del Oriente
A restored 1920s dining room with a pianist, white tablecloths and a menu with something plain for everyone; they will push tables together.
Saturday: The open-top car and the mosaic village
- Classic convertible tour
A 1950s Chevrolet seats five in comfort; an hour along the Malecón, through Vedado and the Plaza de la Revolución without anyone walking a step.
- La Cocina de Lilliam
Tables in a garden of fountains and ferns, a 1930s villa behind, and plain good Cuban food that suits a child and a grandmother; book the garden.
- Fusterlandia
A neighbourhood tiled in mosaic by one artist, flat streets to wander and a bench on every corner that is also a sculpture; children love it most.
Sunday: The boat across the bay
- Ferry to Regla
The small ferry from the Muelle de Luz crosses the harbour in ten minutes to the church of the black Virgin, a short flat walk from the landing.
- Paladar Los Mercaderes
A first-floor dining room of rose petals and a violinist, with a lunch sitting that suits a big table; the lobster and the ropa vieja both arrive generously.
- Museo de la Ciudad
The governors' palace on the Plaza de Armas, with a courtyard, peacocks, carriages and the throne room; a ramp at the door and benches along the gallery.
Monday: The dome
- Capitolio
The regilded 1929 dome with lifts, a diamond in the floor and the third-largest indoor statue in the world; a guided visit takes an hour and has places to sit.
- Parque Central
Benches under the palms around the Martí statue, the baseball argument on the hot corner and the classic cars lined up for the children to photograph.
- Hotel Inglaterra terrace
The 1875 hotel's pavement terrace on the park, with a band at lunch and a menu of sandwiches and plates that need no explaining; the taxi rank is beside it.