Ibiza for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
White walls, salt flats, and a rock that hums.
Eating is the itinerary. Breakfast where the porters eat, a market tour, the dish the city is known for in the place that does it best, and one serious dinner.
Friday: The old market
- Mercat Vell
The 1873 market hall at the foot of the walls, now ringed with bars; the fruit stalls are gone but the fishmongers' marble is still there.
- Can Terra
Pintxos stacked along the bar and a vermouth on tap, the town's standing supper before the real one; pay by the cocktail sticks you leave.
- Ca n'Alfredo
The island's classic dining room since 1934, guisat de peix and greixonera for pudding; the walls are hung with photographs of who has eaten here.
Saturday: Farm and vine
- Mercat de Forada
The Saturday farmers' market beside the Can Tixedó bar: island goat cheese, sobrassada, honey, and the pink tomatoes that never leave the island.
- Sa Cova winery
A family winery in the island's wine valley, with a walk through the monastrell vines and a tasting of the reds the tavernas pour; book ahead.
- Es Xarcu
Bullit de peix the way the fishermen made it, the fish first and the rice cooked in its broth after; a beach shack with the best version on the island.
Sunday: Farm table and the studio
- Santa Gertrudis plaza
The village the island's cooks live in; Sunday vermouth outside Bar Costa, and the deli counters selling sobrassada and flaó to take home.
- Can Caus
A farm restaurant that raises its own lamb and makes its own cheese, long tables under the carob trees, and the sofrit pagès in a clay pot.
- Ibiza Food Studio
Boris Buono's supper club in a Dalt Vila house, one long table and a menu of what the island gave him that week; book months ahead.
Monday: Market and bakery
- Mercat Nou
The town's working market, where the restaurants shop: the fish counters, the salt by the kilo, and the stall selling the island's small dark figs.
- Croissant Show
The bakery at the foot of the walls since 1986, pastries and a coffee at the tables outside where the market porters take their break.
- La Oliva
Ibicenco tapas at a busy old-town table: croquetas, anchovies and whatever is on the board, with a cold glass of wine. Go at one, before the queue.