Ibiza for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
White walls, salt flats, and a rock that hums.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Sunset strip
- Café del Mar
The bar that invented the sunset album in 1980; the terrace is dear, the rocks below it are free and the view is the same.
- Es Ventall
A proper dinner before the night starts, island lamb and black rice in a garden; the kitchen takes orders until late and the taxis are outside.
- Pacha
The cherries, open since 1973, and still the club with the best sound in town; Fridays run to seven, so pace the first hour.
Saturday: Bossa
- Jockey Club
Lunch on the sand at the beach restaurant that becomes a party by four; grilled prawns, a slow rosé, and the day's first DJ.
- Ushuaïa
The open-air hotel stage where the headline sets play in daylight and end at midnight; the pool is the dance floor and the sun does the lighting.
- Hï Ibiza
Across the road from Ushuaïa, the old Space, with the Theatre room and the DJ booth in the toilets; the queue moves if you have tickets.
Sunday: North and the drums
- Elements
A long lunch on the beach to recover, fish and a salad under the awning; the drummers set up on the rocks around five.
- Benirràs sunset drummers
The Sunday drum circle, the fire-jugglers and the whole north of the island on the sand; stay until the last drum goes quiet.
- Amnesia
The club in a farmhouse where the island's sound was made; the Terrace at dawn with the roof open is the thing you came for.
Monday: Breakfast at dawn
- Croissant Show
The bakery opens when the clubs close; a croissant and a coffee at the tables outside with everybody else who has not been to bed.
- Dalt Vila cathedral terrace
After a few hours' sleep, the walk up through the walls to the terrace, where the harbour and the ferries are the only noise.
- La Escollera
Paella on the beach at Es Cavallet with the salt flats behind; the airport is fifteen minutes away and the kitchen is quick if you say so.